The Tabla Buții Pass has been a key crossing point through the Carpathians for centuries, connecting Transylvania and Muntenia in a route rich with history and significance. This ancient passage not only facilitated trade and travel but also witnessed pivotal moments in history. In 1916, during the First World War, it became the scene of intense clashes between Romanian and German forces, leaving an indelible mark on the landscape and the collective memory of the region. To honor the sacrifices made here, an annual commemoration is held on August 6, drawing visitors to reflect on its historical importance. In 2012 and 2013, I embarked on a cycling journey to the pass to attend the solemn ceremony. The experience was both physically challenging and deeply moving, as the rugged beauty of the Carpathians provided a poignant backdrop to the acts of remembrance. For more insights into the history of the Tabla Buții Pass and details on exploring this remarkable site, continue reading below.

The Battles at Tabla Buții Pass
At the start of World War I, Transylvania was part of Austria-Hungary. Romania, striving for the unification of its territories, joined the Entente Powers (France, Great Britain, and Russia) in 1916, entering the war against the Central Powers (Germany and Austria-Hungary). This bold decision led to a series of fierce confrontations, with the Carpathians becoming a critical battleground. On August 15, 1916, the Romanian Tabla Buții group, consisting of 3,000 men, launched an offensive that delivered a crushing blow to the enemy forces concentrated in the area. This initial success underscored Romania's determination to secure Transylvania. However, the advance was short-lived. The Central Powers responded swiftly, with German reinforcements bolstering the Austro-Hungarian army and halting the Romanian offensive into Transylvania. The tables soon turned as the German forces counterattacked, aiming to breach Romania's mountain defenses and push through into Muntenia. The Tabla Buții Pass became a focal point of these efforts. From October 2 to 31, 1916, the German army mounted repeated assaults on the Romanian defensive positions in the pass. Despite their relentless attempts, the defenders held their ground, repelling the attacks and denying the enemy passage into Romania. By the end of October, the Germans abandoned their efforts, unable to overcome the resilience of the Romanian troops.


The Cemetery and Commemoration at Tabla Buții Pass
In 1919, following the end of World War I, a cemetery was established at the Tabla Buții Pass to honor the soldiers who had fallen in the battles fought there. This cemetery became a place of reconciliation, where soldiers from all sides of the conflict—Romanian, German, and Austro-Hungarian—were laid to rest, united in death despite having been divided in life by the war. Beginning in 1922, a tradition of remembrance took root under the leadership of priest Ioan Ștefan Vasilescu. Each year, on August 6, a solemn pilgrimage was organized to the cemetery, where families, veterans, and community members gathered to honor the memory of the fallen heroes. These early commemorations reflected a deeply personal and collective grief, as well as a shared commitment to ensuring the sacrifices of the past would not be forgotten.

The Point of Departure
My in-laws lived in the commune of Măneciu, located in Prahova County. This picturesque commune is made up of several villages nestled on the surrounding hills, perched on the left bank of the Teleajăn River. A dam, built to supply electricity to the towns along the river's course, stands as a testament to the region’s importance in the development of local infrastructure. From my in-laws’ house, Tabla Buții Pass lies about 30 kilometers away in a straight line. However, there is no direct road that leads to the pass, making the journey more complex. While the distance itself seems manageable, navigating the winding roads and rugged terrain on a bike presents a real challenge. The route involves navigating through the winding paths that climb and descend the hills, often far from the main roads. The journey, though rewarding, requires a sense of adventure and a readiness for the unpredictable, both in terms of the landscape and the conditions of the roads.

The Departure
We had no clear idea of the route ahead, no certainty about what to expect, and no assurance that we would even manage to reach Tabla Buții. But the uncertainty only added to the excitement. For the first time, I set out on this journey with my eldest son, Radu, and his friend, Cătălin. They were an experienced team, with whom I had already shared countless hikes and bike rides over the years. Their enthusiasm and determination were reassuring, even if the path ahead remained a mystery. In 2013, the adventure grew when two other friends of Radu and Cătălin joined us, eager to experience this challenge for themselves. Together, we formed a group united by a shared sense of adventure, ready to face whatever obstacles lay in the rugged landscape. As we pedaled forward, the thrill of exploring the unknown and the camaraderie of our small team made each moment of the journey feel significant. It wasn’t just about reaching our destination; it was about embracing the journey itself, whatever it might bring.

First Part of the Journey
And so, we set off! The first part of the journey, from my in-laws’ house to the dam, is relatively easy—about 7 kilometers on a smooth road. Crossing the dam itself is straightforward, a brief interlude in our journey before we begin the ascent. The real challenge starts as we climb the hill that rises above the lake created by the dam. In certain stretches, the incline is so steep that pedaling becomes nearly impossible. We resort to pushing our bikes, trudging along on foot, each step a small victory against the mountain. But as we reach the summit, the effort is rewarded in a way that makes it all worthwhile. From the top, the view opens up before us, a breathtaking panorama of the surrounding landscape—rolling hills, the serene lake below, and the distant peaks of the Carpathians. The beauty of the scene brings a sense of accomplishment and excitement, a reminder of why we had embarked on this adventure in the first place. The road ahead may have been difficult, but the journey itself was already proving to be unforgettable.

We Discover the Road
As we continue pedaling, the dam and its lake gradually fade from view, leaving us in unfamiliar terrain. From this point onward, we step into the unknown. The road ahead is one we’ve never traveled before, and with each turn, we feel the thrill of exploration. We maintain a slow pace, not only to take in the surrounding beauty but also to ensure we don’t lose our way in the dense forest. The air is crisp, and the sound of our tires on the gravel mixes with the soft rustling of the leaves. As we ride, the tranquility of nature surrounds us, but we remain cautious, aware of how easy it would be to stray from the path in this unfamiliar landscape. Along the stream flowing to our right, we begin to notice various man-made structures. These remnants from the past—small bridges, old mills, and other forgotten constructions—offer glimpses of a time when this area may have been more inhabited or utilized. Each of these structures tells a story, adding layers of history to our journey and reminding us that even in the heart of nature, human presence has left its mark. It is a fascinating discovery, as if the forest itself is slowly revealing its secrets to us.

2013: We Are the Guides
When we returned in 2013, we were already familiar with the route, having cycled it twice in 2012 (the second time being the excursion featured in the article "Nature and Adventure: Ciucaș on Two Wheels"). With this experience behind us, we now had the privilege of being guides for our friends, showing them the beauty of the places we passed through and the wonders of the forest. As we pedaled along, we shared the secrets of the landscape, pointing out hidden gems in nature and the spectacular views that had made our previous journeys so memorable. We introduced them to the small village of Valea Stânii, a quiet settlement nestled along the way, giving them a glimpse into rural life in this remote area. The charm of Valea Stânii lies in its simplicity, and we took the time to tell our friends about its history and the lives of those who call it home. Being guides on this journey was a rewarding experience. It allowed us to relive the magic of the path, but through the eyes of our friends, whose excitement and awe reminded us of the sense of wonder we had felt when we first ventured here. It was no longer just a personal adventure; it was a shared experience that brought us all closer to the natural beauty and rich heritage of the area.

The Barbecue
Once we left the village behind, we continued on forest roads, gradually making our way closer to the majestic Ciucaș massif. This is "our mountain," the one we have crossed countless times during our hikes. Every time we approach its familiar slopes, there’s a sense of anticipation, as if we’re returning home to a place that holds many memories. As we pedal, we keep one eye on the rugged road ahead and the other on the stunning surroundings. The forest envelops us, its silence broken only by the sound of our wheels on the gravel. Along the way, we are pleasantly surprised to spot the marking of a route we know well—one we have traversed multiple times during our walks through Ciucaș. It’s a comforting sight, a reminder of the many journeys we’ve undertaken on foot through this very mountain.

Soon, we arrive at a perfect spot for a break, a small clearing surrounded by trees, offering a stunning view of the peaks in the distance. It's here that we decide to stop and enjoy a well-earned barbecue. As the smell of grilled food fills the air and we share stories and laughter, the mountains around us seem to stand witness to our gathering. This moment, a blend of nature, camaraderie, and tradition, becomes another memory to treasure in the heart of the Ciucaș massif. For the next few hundred meters, our path to Tabla Buții merges with the tourist trail, the familiar markings guiding us along. As we continue, the shared route offers a sense of camaraderie with those who have hiked or cycled this same path before us. The landscape around us unfolds, each twist and turn revealing more of the Carpathian beauty. At the point where our road diverges from the trail, we decide to take a well-deserved break for lunch. We stop and quickly set up an improvised grill, eager to refuel before the next stretch of the journey. The scent of sizzling meat fills the air as we gather around, chatting and enjoying the warmth of the fire. It's a simple but cherished ritual: the need to be well-fed for the challenging terrain ahead. We know the road from here will demand more of us, and so we take our time to enjoy the meal, share stories, and gather our strength for what we assume is still to come. The anticipation of the next leg of the journey mixes with the satisfaction of a good meal in the heart of nature, making the moment feel even more special.

Pasul Tabla Buții - 2012
Once again, we venture into the unknown. The path leading to the site of the ceremony begins at "Pasul Tabla Buții." Since the trail wasn't marked, we proceed slowly and carefully, ensuring we don’t miss the way. The road itself is in good condition, winding through a magnificent forest that captivates us with its beauty. With each step, we fully immerse ourselves in the quiet pleasure of walking through such an untouched landscape, taking in the fresh air, the scent of pine, and the rustling of leaves underfoot.

As we approach the pass, we find ourselves filled with a mix of excitement and anticipation. To our delight, we are fortunate: when we arrive at Pasul Tabla Buții, there are already people gathered there, some of whom have arrived ahead of us for the ceremony. Their presence adds a sense of camaraderie and shared purpose to the occasion. The atmosphere feels both solemn and uplifting, as the site of the commemoration comes into view—familiar yet always moving in its significance. We take a moment to reflect, silently absorbing the spirit of the place, before joining the others in honoring the memory of those who gave their lives here during the war. Some decided to give up on the steep slope ahead, setting up camp at the base to rest and wait. Others, more determined, tackle the climb with their cars, pushing them from one spot to another as they struggle to make it up the hill. But, of course, we find ourselves in the same predicament: we too have to push our bikes up the hill! The slope is relentless, and with each step, the effort becomes more taxing. But there’s no turning back now. We take turns pushing our bikes, pausing only for a breath or to adjust our grip on the handlebars. The challenge brings us closer together, the shared effort uniting us in our determination to reach the top. As we ascend, the steep incline gives way to a sense of achievement, and we are rewarded with the knowledge that the hardest part of the journey is behind us. With each push, we are closer to the summit—and the ceremony that awaits. The journey may have been demanding, but the anticipation of what lies ahead makes it all worthwhile.

Pasul Tabla Buții - 2013
This time, we know exactly what we’re facing and what needs to be done. After leaving the spot where we enjoyed the barbecue, we pedal with more confidence, heading straight towards the pass. The steep slope that had once seemed so daunting is, of course, still there, but this time, we are better prepared. Having already encountered it during our previous journey, we now know what to expect. With that knowledge in hand, we approach the climb with a sense of determination rather than fear. The initial anxiety of the unknown has been replaced by the familiarity of the road, making the ascent feel more manageable. We push ourselves with a steadiness that comes from experience, and although the climb remains challenging, it doesn’t feel as intimidating as it did the first time. The familiar scenery of the forest and the mountain reminds us how far we’ve come. We are no longer beginners on this path—we are veterans of the journey, and this time, the climb feels like just another part of the adventure. The pass, once a symbol of uncertainty, now feels like an old friend, welcoming us back.

Arriving at the top, we pause for a moment to take in the breathtaking beauty of the landscapes unfolding before us. This time, feeling less exhausted than the previous year, we are able to fully appreciate the grandeur of the surroundings. The sweeping vistas of the Carpathian peaks, the rolling hills, and the dense forests seem even more stunning than before. With the fatigue of the climb now behind us, we take a deep breath, allowing the fresh mountain air to fill our lungs. We allow ourselves to fully immerse in the view, letting it rejuvenate not just our bodies, but our spirits as well. The sight of nature in all its glory, untouched and vast, fills us with a sense of awe and gratitude. We linger, savoring the moment and the privilege of being here, knowing that this is one of those rare, unforgettable experiences that stays with you long after you’ve left. Each detail—the play of light on the mountain slopes, the gentle rustle of leaves in the breeze—seems to nourish both our eyes and our souls. It’s a reminder that nature has a way of renewing us, offering peace and beauty in even the most challenging moments.

The Descent
Every climb is inevitably followed by a descent, and the steeper the slope, the faster and more exhilarating the ride. Descent is always a thrilling part of the journey—more spectacular, more adrenaline-pumping. However, this time is different. The place of the ceremony is situated at an altitude similar to ours, so we won’t experience the typical rush of a rapid descent. Instead, our route begins to narrow as we move forward, transforming into a winding path bordered by a deep valley in some places. The beauty of the surrounding landscape is undeniable, but the steep drop on either side of the trail demands our full attention. We can’t afford to rush down this slope. We descend slowly, carefully controlling our bikes with precision. Every twist in the path requires focus, every turn calls for a gentle grip on the handlebars, and the brakes are used more frequently than we would like. The need to stay vigilant is constant, ensuring that we don’t lose our balance or speed in the wrong moment. Though the descent isn’t the adrenaline-fueled thrill we expected, it’s no less exhilarating in its own way, as we navigate the path with care and respect for the landscape around us.


The Cemetery
In both 2012 and 2013, finding a place to set up camp was never a problem. After pitching our tents, we made our way to the cemetery to visit the graves of the soldiers who had died defending their country in 1916. As someone passionate about history, I took the opportunity to share some insights with the children, explaining the context of the First World War—the nations involved, the conduct of the conflict, and its ultimate outcome. I also spoke about Romania’s contribution to the war effort and the significant benefits it had gained, particularly the unification of all territories inhabited by Romanians, which resulted in the creation of Greater Romania. It felt like a living history lesson, one that not only connected us to the past but also made the children more aware of the sacrifices that were made. As I spoke, a small crowd began to gather around us, intrigued by the story I was telling. At the end of the impromptu lesson, I was surprised when several strangers approached me and thanked me, addressing me as “Mr. Professor.” It was a humbling moment, but it also brought a smile to my face. The children, amused by the turn of events, found it funny that for the rest of the evening, I was no longer “dad” or “Mr. Angelo,” but “Mr. Professor.” It was a lighthearted shift in roles, but it made the experience even more memorable for all of us.


The Campfire
As evening falls, the familiar ritual of building a campfire begins, one that doubles as our barbecue. The crackling flames provide warmth, light, and a sense of camaraderie. But we're not the only ones; everyone around us has gathered around their own fires, each one adding to the collective glow of the evening. The air is filled with laughter, conversations, and music. Some play folk tunes, while others enjoy modern beats, creating an eclectic soundtrack that mixes the old with the new. The atmosphere is vibrant and festive, with people of all ages coming together to celebrate the occasion. There's an undeniable sense of joy in the air, as the flames dance and flicker under the starry sky. It's a perfect moment, one that blends tradition with the spirit of togetherness. Our last visit was in 2013, but I can’t help but imagine that the festivities in 2024 were even grander, likely extended over the two days of the weekend. The sense of community and celebration only grows over time, and I can only hope that future visitors are able to experience the same warmth and connection that we did in those earlier years. The campfire, like the ceremony itself, stands as a symbol of remembrance and unity.

The Guard
On August 6, the ceremony officially begins with the installation of a military guard in front of the cemetery, a solemn tradition that marks the start of the commemoration. Each time we visited, the guard was provided by the mountain hunters, an elite unit of the Romanian army, known for their discipline, skill, and connection to the rugged landscapes of the Carpathians. These soldiers, dressed in their distinctive uniforms, stood as a symbol of respect and honor for the fallen heroes. Their presence is not just ceremonial; they remain on guard throughout the entire event, a constant reminder of the sacrifice and bravery of those who fought and died at this very pass. The mountain hunters are a fitting tribute, their vigilance and duty echoing the determination of the soldiers who once faced these challenging terrains. As the day unfolds, the guard stands silent and steadfast, marking the passage of time with their unwavering presence, adding a sense of reverence to the festivities. Their dedication is a fitting tribute to the memory of the soldiers, ensuring that the past is honoured with the respect it deserves.

Program of the Ceremony
The ceremony begins with a moment of silence, a solemn pause that allows everyone present to reflect on the sacrifices made by the soldiers who fought and died at Tabla Buții. This moment serves as a collective act of remembrance, uniting all in respect and gratitude. Following the silence, a service is held in honor of the fallen heroes. The words spoken during the service echo the gravity of the moment, as clergy and other officials offer prayers for the souls of those who gave their lives in the 1916 confrontations. It’s a spiritual tribute to the courage and sacrifice of those who stood at the pass, defending their land and their people. Next, representatives of the authorities give short but poignant speeches, highlighting the significance of the day and the importance of remembering the past. These addresses are often brief but full of meaning, emphasizing the enduring legacy of the soldiers' bravery.

The Celebration
After the official ceremony, the atmosphere shifts as the festivities move to the stage specially set up for the occasion. The brass band of the military unit that provided the guard at the cemetery takes the stage first, filling the air with the powerful, resonant sound of their instruments. The music, bold and stirring, marks a transition from solemnity to celebration, setting the tone for the rest of the evening. Next, the folk music and dance groups take their turn, showcasing the rich cultural heritage of the region. Traditional songs and dances come to life as the performers, dressed in vibrant costumes, bring the stories of the past to the present. The energy on stage is infectious, with each performance drawing cheers and applause from the crowd. The audience, a mix of seated and standing spectators, watches in rapt attention. The air is filled with the rhythm of the music and the joy of the celebration. Some in the crowd clap along with the beat, while others join in with familiar songs, their voices blending with the melodies. The sense of unity is palpable, as the community comes together not just to remember the past but to celebrate their shared culture and heritage. The evening unfolds as a vibrant display of tradition, music, and dance, where history, community, and celebration intertwine, making for an unforgettable experience.

To the House
For the return trip, we decided to take a more direct route. We had known about it before, but during our journey to Tabla Buții, we had hesitated to choose it, thinking it would be too challenging to cycle through. However, with the descent now ahead of us, we figured it was a good opportunity to take the shortcut, as the incline worked in our favour. In 2012, we found the descent more difficult than expected due to the bumps and unevenness of the road, which made the ride uncomfortable at times. But by 2013, we were better prepared and more familiar with the terrain. Everything went smoothly, and the challenges we had once feared now seemed much more manageable. Along the way, we stopped several times to admire the breathtaking scenery—the rolling hills, the expansive views, and the untouched beauty of the landscape around us. These moments of pause allowed us to reflect on the journey, taking in the peace of nature before continuing on our way home. The road, which had once seemed daunting, now felt more like a familiar friend, guiding us back with ease. The experience had come full circle—what had once seemed like a difficult path was now a journey we embraced, enjoying the views and the sense of accomplishment with each pedal stroke.

At the Final
Our 2012 and 2013 Tabla Butii adventures end here. Others will follow. The memories and magnificent scenery will forever be etched in our hearts. We will not forget how we had to overcome our limits to reach this place, how each challenge faced along the way became a part of the journey we’ll always cherish. The experiences we shared and the beauty of the landscape will remain with us, a reminder of what we can achieve when we push beyond what we thought possible. These moments, though now behind us, will continue to inspire the adventures that lie ahead.


Explanation of the Name 'Tabla Buții'
The name "Tabla Buții" has its origins in the period when Transylvania was part of the Austrian Empire, between 1700 and 1918. During this time, Pasul Tabla Buții served as an important customs post for goods that passed through the Carpathians, entering or leaving Transylvania. At this customs office, Austrian officials would place a small metal piece, called a "plate," on the wine barrels that crossed the border. The barrels of wine were referred to as "butie" in Romanian (and "buti" in the plural), a term used by local wine merchants. This process led the Romanian merchants to refer to the customs post as "Tabla Buții" (literally, "The Table of Wine Barrels"), based on the practice of marking the barrels with the "plate." Over time, the name stuck, and today, it marks not only a historical point of commerce but also a symbol of the region's connection to both trade and tradition.
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