For Angelo and George, the Retezat Massif holds a special place as our soul mountain. I traversed it twice, in 1988 and 1991, spending several days each time. It was there that we learned to cherish and respect the mountain, where its laws and teachings became ingrained in our minds and hearts. Retezat has left an indelible mark on us, shaping much of our achievements and who we are today. In 2010, I, Angelo, sought to introduce this mountain to my eldest son, Radu. Below is the account of our journey.
Accessing the Mountain
The journey begins from Bucharest, Romania's capital, to Petroşani, a drive that takes approximately seven hours with breaks. From Petroşani, there are several routes to reach Lake Bucura, situated at 2041 meters above sea level.
First Day: Buta–Bucura
Route Information: The trail from Buta to Bucura is marked with a 'red cross'. It typically takes us about six hours, including necessary breaks to admire nature, the mountains, and to capture photos along the way. Technically, the route starts off easy but progresses to moderate and even difficult in some sections as we approach Bucura. Physically, it is challenging due to the approximately 6 km distance and an elevation gain of over 500 meters. Upon arriving at Buta, I glance around and find that the building and its surroundings are just as I remember them.
Memories
We spend a few minutes on a bench outside the cabin, reminiscing with Radu about our visit in 1988. It was the culmination of our expedition after spending several days in the mountains. We were young and elated because we had completed marvelous hikes in the enchanting heart of the Retezat Mountains. However, we were also hungry, only managing to find a few slightly moldy biscuits. Back then, such small discoveries felt fortunate, as everything was scarce, especially food, under the yoke of the communist regime. Thankfully, Romania is no longer under communist rule today, allowing us to enjoy a delicious homemade cake to fuel us for the adventures ahead.
Because our objective for the first day in Retezat is to reach Lake Bucura. Initially, the trail is dirt-covered, with grass abundant and tall, imposing fir trees. We ascend gradually. As we progress, the landscape undergoes a transformation: the path becomes increasingly strewn with small and large stones, the trees diminish in size, and the jagged rocks start to appear. We are approaching the "stone heart" of Retezat (The Cut).
The Stone Heart of Retezat
After about 3 hours of walking, we reach a place called "Poiana Pelegii". In my memories, there was only a clearing here, offering a dreamy view of the majestic peaks of the massif. However, to our surprise, we find that an asphalted road has been constructed up to this point, with a makeshift parking lot created alongside it for cars. This development makes it easier to access Bucura. We take a longer break here to have lunch and to admire the captivating spectacle presented by the peaks we plan to ascend in the coming days. Unfortunately, clouds begin to gather, growing darker and heavier with water.
We don't give up!
I suggest to Radu that we could return to Buta to avoid the torrential rain that is forecasted. Radu firmly rejects the idea, stating, "Dad, we're going all the way. We're not giving up." With determination, we continue towards Bucura. As we gain altitude, stones and rocks increasingly cover the path, while firs gradually give way to junipers. Upon hearing the distant rumble of thunder and seeing lightning flash across the sky, we prepare our rain capes.
And at that moment, we encounter four young men who had set out from Poiana Pelegii to spend two days at Bucura. They were unprepared for such weather on a mountain like Retezat, and their fear had slowed their pace even more than ours. According to the 'laws of the mountain', up there, we are all friends. We exchange greetings and are always ready to converse, share ideas and information, and provide and receive mountain advice. If someone encounters difficulty, it is our duty to stand by them and offer whatever help we can. As a result, we strike up a conversation with them and propose continuing the journey together, which they gladly accept. From there, we proceed together in single file.
Radu, the 'little broom'
I take the lead position in the column; being the most experienced among us, I ensure we follow the trail markers and guide others on the best approach to challenging sections of the path—where to step and how. Radu, next in experience after me, takes up the rear position. He acts as the "broom," ensuring no one falls behind or loses their way amidst the wild nature of the mountain. In return, they assist us by carrying our heavy backpacks filled with essentials for several days in the mountains. The rain pours down relentlessly, seeming endless to us, though in reality, it lasts less than two hours. Shortly after it stops, Lake Bucura—the largest lake in Retezat—majestically unfolds before our eyes.
Boiling water as hot chocolate
Here, in addition to the designated tent area, we spot a shelter. We learn that it serves as the base for a team of mountain rescuers, always prepared to intervene as needed. According to their accounts, such interventions are unfortunately quite frequent now—a stark contrast to the days when I used to come here with George, where no such "civilized benefits" existed, just wild and untamed nature. Back then, only experienced and well-prepared hikers could reach this remote place. As the day winds down, we enjoy hot chocolate prepared by Radu. Perhaps due to fatigue, he might have misjudged the amount of chocolate, resulting in only faint traces of it in the cups of boiling water. Nonetheless, we console ourselves, acknowledging that it still serves its purpose by warming us up after enduring the cold rain along the way. Tired but proud of overcoming the rain, we retire early, aiming to rest well for another hike tomorrow.
The second day: Peleaga Peak
Peleaga, standing at 2509 meters, is the highest peak in the Retezat Massif. To reach it from Bucura, there are two routes that can be combined to form a circuit. The first route, marked with a 'yellow cross', ranges from moderate to difficult, featuring steep climbs and several sections where we need to scale rocks to proceed. The second route, marked with a 'red band', is easier to moderate, starting with a dirt path that leads us gradually to the mountain ridge.
Heading towards the eternal snow
As we continue our ascent, we encounter some rocky sections, though nothing overly challenging. The final stretch involves a strenuous climb up rocks that brings us to the summit. For the most comprehensive experience of this hike, we recommend following the 'yellow cross' route on the ascent and returning via the 'red band' route. We start the day by consulting with rescuers about the weather forecast, which unfortunately predicts rain in the afternoon. They suggest opting for the 'red band' route, considering it more suitable for us. However, Radu dismisses this suggestion, and we embark on the 'yellow cross' route. Radu thoroughly enjoys navigating the rocks along the path, even veering off to explore a patch of eternal snow—snow that persists year-round, even in midsummer, at altitudes above 2000 meters.
I completed the route in 2.30 hours, more than the time indicated on the trail marker. However, the higher we ascended, the more breathtaking the views of Bucura and the other lakes nestled in the heart of the mountain became. Naturally, we paused several times to admire them, captivated by the picturesque scenes unfolding before our eyes. Upon reaching the summit, we planned to take an extended break, enjoy a snack, capture a few snapshots, and linger to soak in the surrounding mountains. Unfortunately, we had to depart after just 10 minutes because the fog began to lift and rain clouds started gathering.
Rain alert
Returning to Bucura, we initially followed the 'red lane'. This route offers a unique feature: throughout the journey, Bucura Lake remains visible, to the right on the ascent and to the left on the descent. However, we did not complete the entire route; after about an hour, before reaching halfway, we had to deviate and take a shortcut—a direct descent down the steep mountain slopes towards Bucura. This option was risky and not recommended, but we faced an emergency situation: rain threatened to start at any moment, and hunger also urged us on. With Bucura always in sight, getting lost was not a concern. Moreover, we were well-equipped and trained to handle such challenges. Within less than an hour, we reached our tent, just as the rain began, persisting until evening. The remainder of the day was spent with fellow tourists, playing cards and sharing stories of our mountain hikes.
Warning
It's important to adhere to another 'law' of the mountain: always follow a marked trail, either physically on the ground or indicated by GPS (or similar technology) through a specific application. Avoid deviating from designated routes.
The third day
Information: In the heart of Retezat, there are 8 lakes, including Bucura and 7 others. There's a circuit route marked with a 'red dot' that allows you to visit them all. The hike takes approximately 5 hours, including numerous obligatory breaks to admire and photograph the lakes and the rugged beauty of the rocks, which captivates the mind and soul. Initially, our plan was to follow this route, revisiting places I had explored with George that still hold a special place in my heart. It was also a chance to introduce Radu to these cherished locations. With the weather forecast promisingly clear, we set off at a leisurely pace. The ascent was gentle, with only a few sections featuring steeper rocks. Radu, full of energy, eagerly sought out additional rock formations to climb along the way. After about an hour, we reached a vantage point with a clear view of Lake Lia, distinguished by its triangular shape among the others.
Lake Lia
Lia lake holds some of the most cherished memories of my life: I pitched my tent next to it in 1988 and again in 1991. I drank its water before setting off on the route to Retezat Peak in 1988 and Peleaga in 1991. We built campfires along its banks, sang mountain songs, and spent countless hours marveling at the unique stones and rocks that define Retezat. After sharing these memories with Radu, we continued along the trail, passing by some lakes while admiring others from a distance. Each lake received a few minutes of our time, allowing us to appreciate their beauty as we did with the distinctive rocks along the way. We crossed the 'red triangle' marking to ascend towards 'Tăul Agățat' at 2208 meters. This magnificent lake is nestled against the mountain, giving it the appearance of being 'hung' from its side, which explains its name.
We encounter a group of two young couples here who, like us, have a passion for the mountains. The merging of our two groups happens naturally, and together we decide to proceed along their chosen route towards Retezat Peak. We depart from Tăul Agățat following the 'yellow stripe' markings, which link Bucura Lake to this peak. After a moderately challenging ascent, we reach the ridge overlooking the lake. Moving in single file, we continue along the ridge, flanked on both sides by sheer cliffs.
The Mountain Tales
Yet, we find joy in sharing stories, tales from our mountain treks, shouting to be heard above the wind. Enchanted by the mountains encircling us and buoyed by our lively exchanges, we lose track of time and distance, only realizing we've reached Retezat's Saddle. From here, a steep climb separates us from Retezat Peak. Unfortunately, the weather begins to deteriorate: fog rolls in, visibility drops. Our companions press on, but Radu and I opt to wait at Şa (the saddle). It's our third day of hiking, and fatigue sets in; the return journey is long with challenging sections ahead. As we wait, we eat and rest, gathering strength for the trek back, which follows the quickest route to Bucura. Despite our efforts to evade it, the rain catches up, leaving us soaked and utterly drained by the time we reach our tents. We barely manage to eat our evening meal before dozing off.
Fourth Day – Rest Day
Much needed after three days of intense exploration, which unveiled Retezat anew for Radu and rekindled memories for me: its unmatched ridges, peaks, and splendid lakes. With sunshine blessing us, we seize the chance to dry the clothes and boots soaked from the previous downpours. However, a 'rest day' doesn't confine us to our tents; we wander around the expansive lake, spanning over 9 hectares, its shores dotted with stones and rocks. Naturally, we spend the day admiring the surrounding ridges that cradle the lake in their embrace.
Mountain Melodies
The remainder of the day is spent with our friends from yesterday, discovering our shared identity as 'mountain enthusiasts' (I've noticed that the term 'mountain men' is more common now in 2024). We reminisce about past hikes and exchange plans for future adventures. Music becomes a topic, and we realize we all enjoy metal music, jokingly agreeing that mountaineers exclusively listen to this genre (alongside traditional mountain songs, of course). Radu chimes in, declaring his newfound passion for metal music, asking me to teach him more about it. Reflecting over time, I recall how in 2020 Radu introduced me to his favourite band, Insomnium (a Finnish melodic death metal group), and ironically, much of this article is being written while listening to their songs. Thus, the roles reverse: yesterday's teacher becomes today's student, and yesterday's student now teaches.
Sadly, the day ends with torrential rain returning. Mountain rescuers inform us it will persist in the coming days. Disappointed, we reluctantly decide to conclude our expedition and head back home. Tomorrow will be...
The Last Day
Information: To depart from Retezat, we opt to descend from Bucura to Cabana Pietrele at 1480 meters, where we can reach Petroşani by car. The trail is marked with 'blue tape', requiring approximately 5 hours, including necessary breaks. We start by climbing up Curmătura Bucurei, after which the rest of the route is downhill. Along the way, we navigate sections strewn with stones and even cross a few rocks, making it moderately challenging. In the morning, feeling a bit melancholy, we pack up our tent, bid farewell to our friends and the mountain rescuers, and set off for Pietrele Cabin. Our first stop is at Curmătura Bucurei, the mountain pass connecting Peleaga and Vârful Retezat, overseeing Lake Bucura from above.
Farewell, Dear Friend!
We bid the lake a final farewell and begin our descent towards Pietrele Hut. Progress is slow, punctuated by frequent breaks to capture photos and steal one last glance at the stunning mountains we leave behind. Gradually, the vegetation changes; the junipers typical of higher altitudes give way to increasingly majestic firs. Only the rocks and piles of stones we occasionally scale remind us that we're still in Retezat. A few hours later, along the path leading to Pietrele Hut, we stumble upon a new construction unknown to us. It's a genuine surprise for me; when George and I came here, there was merely a wooden bench—a place to rest and catch our breath after the physically demanding climb from the Stones.
Talking to the innkeeper, we learn that this is the Gențiana Hut. He also explains why it was built: the Pietrele Hut has ceased to be a typical mountain refuge and has transformed into a sort of hotel, attracting tourists eager to boast about their Retezat adventures. Consequently, true mountaineers prefer to stay here, especially given its less accessible location due to the ascent required to reach it.
We stop here to have lunch and then resume our journey towards Pietrele Hut, descending one final time, accompanied by a sudden gust of rain that hits us just before reaching the cabin. While waiting for the car that will take us to Petroşani, we cast one last glance at the mountain and solemnly pledge: we will return! Coming soon: 'Retezat 2011: The Sun King'.
RETEZAT NATIONAL PARK - TECHNICAL PRESENTATION
Retezat is the most complex and grandiose mountain massif among all the geographical sectors of the Romanian Carpathians. Its uniqueness lies in the presence of spectacular alpine peaks exceeding 2000 m in height and a sculptural relief shaped by two major glaciations (Riss and Würm), which have left distinct marks, creating a climate that varies significantly with altitude.
The Retezat National Park was established in 1935 through the initiative of Professor Alexandru Borza, founder of the Cluj-Napoca Botanical Garden, and scientist Emil Racoviță, pioneer of speleology.
Currently, the park holds the status of a protected natural area of national and international significance, designated as a Biosphere Reserve since 1979. The establishment of the Retezat National Park aims to safeguard and conserve representative examples of the national biogeographic region, encompassing natural elements of exceptional value across physical geography, flora, fauna, hydrology, geology, paleontology, speleology, soil science, and landscape.
The Retezat National Park – Biosphere Reserve is situated in the western part of the Southern Carpathians, encompassing an area of 38,138 hectares within the Retezat-Godeanu Massif. It features twenty peaks exceeding 2000 meters in height and more than 80 glacial lakes, among which Lake Bucura stands out as the largest glacial lake in the country. The park also incorporates the Gemenele Scientific Reserve spanning 1,630 hectares.
Comments