This is the account of a two-day bicycle journey through the hills and forests surrounding the Ciucaș massif. The route led us along forest roads and trails worn by shepherds—unmarked and unmapped, yet brimming with charm and challenge. Along the way, we encountered a towering dam, spent the night at a scenic trout farm, marveled at a beautiful waterfall, and visited an experimental center focused on protecting endangered wildlife. Over the course of the two days, I pedaled at least 150 kilometers, immersing myself in an intense and unforgettable experience amidst nature.
The Beginning of our Adventure
There are three of us: me, Angelo, my eldest son, and Cătălin, his childhood friend. On the morning of August 30, 2012, we departed from my in-laws' home in Măneciu, a charming commune in Prahova County. The area is made up of several villages nestled across the surrounding gentle hills, where dairy farming is the primary livelihood of the locals.
From Măneciu Pământeni, where my in-laws live, to the heart of the commune, Măneciu Ungureni, is a distance of approximately seven kilometers. This road leads us to the imposing dam that commands the surrounding landscape.
On the Dam Road
The dam, completed in 1994 on the Telejean River, serves to regulate water flow and provide electricity to the communes downstream, all the way to the town of Vălenii de Munte. The "dam road" is a concrete path that follows the river for about 25 kilometers. Originally intended for the teams responsible for the operation and maintenance of the dam and its facilities, local authorities quietly permit residents to use it for their daily needs. I’ve cycled this route numerous times, heading to various destinations. Running parallel to National Road 1A, the "dam road" provides a safer alternative, far removed from the heavy traffic of cars and trucks.
At Height, Above the Dam
Though not particularly large, the dam possesses a unique beauty, surrounded by hills thick with towering firs. We cross it without difficulty, but the climb to the top of the hill that watches over it proves to be a true challenge, especially with our backpacks, packed with everything we needed for two days away from home. The ascent is continuous for two kilometers, starting at the dam’s base and rising 200 meters to the highest point. From there, the view is nothing short of spectacular, offering a panorama that made every bit of the effort worthwhile.
The Road to Valea Stânii
From here, we continue along an almost straight dirt forest road, scattered with stones and pebbles. Well-prepared with sturdy mountain bikes, we have little to worry about. The sun is bright, but under the canopy of the forest, the summer heat is barely felt. We push forward steadily, pausing occasionally to admire a waterfall or take a short rest. Two hours later, after covering 20 kilometers, we reach the village of Valea Stânii. Here, we are met with a surprising sight: a herd of... four-legged locals.
The Cheiței Keys
We pass through the hamlet and continue on our route, which takes us deeper into the heart of the Ciucaș Mountains. The path climbs gently, offering us breathtaking views of the mountain ridge to our left. After a while, we pause for a gastronomic break: homemade cakes made by my wife, giving us the energy we need to take a slight detour and visit Cheile Cheiței, just a few steps away. These stunning keys captivate us, evoking the feeling that we've stepped into an untouched corner of the world. We stop for a "roadside picnic," savoring our meal and relishing the tranquility of the place. After a brief rest, we continue on our journey, ready for the next stage ahead.
Tabla Buții Pass
We continue along the road that leads us to the pass, a familiar route from a previous trip (a story for another time). We climb up to Tabla Buții Pass, situated at an altitude of 1,340 meters, where we take a brief pause to catch our breath. According to the map, a waterfall should be up ahead, so we decide to follow the path. The area is completely new to us, but on either side of the road, hills and forests stretch out, nature in all its splendor. We feel like true adventurers, venturing into unexplored territory.
At Păstravărie
After another thirty kilometers pedaled in about three hours, the fatigue was starting to become more and more noticeable. We continue to pedal, but with our eyes on the surrounding landscape, looking for a suitable place to set up the tent and spend the night. Suddenly, we notice a road to the left and a sign indicating the existence of a trout. The kids are excited, so we decide to follow the arrow. At the trout farm, we meet a kind and hospitable couple who allow us to set up our tent on their land. To the curious questions of the children, the owner answers with pleasure, being visibly delighted to tell us about his passion: raising trout. A real lesson in fish farming, full of interesting and engaging information.
The theoretical lesson is followed by practical demonstrations: feeding the fish, refreshing the water, and inspecting some of them to assess their health and development. Every step is carried out with great care, ensuring we gain a thorough understanding of the process. As the day draws to a close, the evening meal is, of course, a feast of grilled trout— a delicacy prepared by our hosts, adding another layer of authenticity and local flavor to the experience.
The Howling Waterfall
The next morning, we wake up refreshed and full of energy to continue our two-wheeled adventure. Our hosts share a wealth of useful information about the route to the Howling Waterfall in Vama Buzăului, and they also mention a nearby special place dedicated to bison. As a bonus, we enjoy a grilled trout snack—delicious and the perfect way to start the day. Even now, years later, we fondly remember their warmth and hospitality. While writing this article, I was curious to see how their business had evolved, and I discovered they are thriving, according to their website, www.ecofish.ro. As we set off, they enthusiastically encouraged us to continue our journey. After a short walk, we arrived at the waterfall—an absolutely breathtaking sight, which more than made up for the effort of the journey.
Leaving the waterfall behind, we set off toward the place where we would encounter the bison. This majestic animal, a distant relative of the bull and close kin of the American bison, vanished from Romania in the 18th century. Around 2000, an ambitious program was launched to reintroduce bison into the country. Specimens imported from Poland are kept in special nature reserves, where they are carefully nurtured until they are ready to be released into protected wild areas. One of these reserves is located about 10 kilometers from the waterfall, and visitors to the area have the rare opportunity to observe these magnificent creatures in their natural habitat. With their imposing size and commanding presence, the bison stands as a symbol of nature's restoration to its rightful balance.
Deer live alongside the bison, sharing the same natural space. Radu, known for his deep affection for animals, is no exception. In no time, several deer approach him, clearly seeking attention and affection. This fills Radu with a sense of being in a true natural paradise. Every moment spent with these creatures feels like a profound connection to the animal world, and with a smile on his face, Radu responds to them with the same warmth and tenderness.
We gather for a brief meeting to decide on our next steps. After some discussion, we agree to head back toward the mountain and continue along forest roads and trails. Our final destination is the town of Săcele, about 45 kilometers away by road. However, since we will be navigating through roads that meander unpredictably through the forests, designed for the needs of foresters, we estimate that our journey will extend to over 60 kilometers.
Easy Road
At first, the road is easy, with nearly flat terrain. Though it’s a dirt path, it’s well compacted, allowing us to glide over it as if it were concrete. In some areas, we pass by logging operations, and from time to time, we glance upward to admire the mountain towering imposingly in the distance, adding a touch of majesty to the landscape.
And Then the Climb
Suddenly, the journey grows more challenging as the climb begins. The road steepens, and at times we’re forced to dismount and push our bikes. Yet, there are moments when the slope eases, allowing us to pedal with less effort, though we pause occasionally to catch our breath. The surrounding nature enchants us, filling our eyes and hearts with a beauty that defies description. At one point, we come across a small house, almost hidden among the trees. It feels like something out of a fairy tale, adding a touch of magic to the serene mountain landscape.
And you know what the most enjoyable part of riding up a hill is? The descent that follows, of course. And that's exactly what's happening now. Radu and Cătălin are thrilled as they race downhill, letting their bikes pick up speed without touching the brakes, simply to feel the rush of adrenaline. Even with the many twists and turns in the road, they remain unfazed. I follow them as well, though I stop occasionally to take in the scenery and snap a few pictures of them enjoying the ride.
Masters of the Universe
Fueled by the adrenaline from the descent, we maintain our speed even as the road flattens out again. After so many kilometers traveled over the past two days, we should be exhausted, yet we’re not. The excitement of the adventure fills us with such joy that we feel like shouting, "We are the masters of the Universe!" A few kilometers later, we reach a small bodega where we stop for a bite to eat, ready to continue our journey with renewed energy.
Terminus Point: Săcele
After a few more kilometers, we arrive in Săcele, and our journey comes to an end. My wife is driving over to pick us up and take us home. The rest of the time is spent strolling through a few streets, admiring the distinctive architecture of the houses. This town was once home to the Saxons, the German minority in Romania. Most of them emigrated to Germany in the late 1980s, under the regime of dictator Nicolae Ceaușescu, and in the early 1990s, after the Revolution that overthrew him. Their houses still stand, bearing the legacy of a rich history and continuing to charm us with their beauty today.
An End Is a Beginning
This adventure ends here, like a chapter in a book filled with stories. But new chapters await, with fresh pages ready to be written. The memories, the challenges we overcame to get here, the breathtaking landscapes, and the kind people we met will live on in our minds and hearts. They will continue to guide us along life’s paths, providing the energy and inspiration we need to face the unknowns of the future.
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