For us, Angelo and George, the Retezat mountain is and will forever remain "the mountain of our soul". We journeyed through it twice, in 1988 and again in 1991, and it left an indelible mark on us. In 2010, I, Angelo, brought my eldest son, Radu, there so that he could experience this enchanting mountain too. Radu, too, fell in love with Retezat—its rocks and lakes. In 2011, we returned determined to traverse its trails again, showing him our deep affection for this place.
The rematch
Our expedition to Retezat in 2010 was hampered by rains, preventing us from exploring as planned (read "In the Heart of Retezat"). This year, we return stronger, better equipped, and vastly more experienced. The weather is splendid, and we are set to conquer the most challenging and breathtaking routes. After last year's setback, now is the time for our rematch. This is our story.
Day 1: Poiana Pelegii – Lake Bucura – Curătura Bucurei. Duration: 3 hours.
We travel from Bucharest on an overnight train, sleeping in bunks. Arriving at the small Subcetate train station, we are picked up by private transport to Poiana Pelegii. Immediately, we set off for Lake Bucura along the trail marked with a 'red cross'. Retezat awaits us, ready to (re)reveal its grandeur and wonders.
We ascend, navigating a vertical difference of approximately 400 meters; some stretches are gentle while others steep. Our backpacks weigh heavily with camping gear and essential supplies for mountain life. Yet, under the bright sun, the landscape reveals the distinctive beauty of our beloved mountain.
We don't walk; we soar!
However, we remain vigilant every step of the way—adhering strictly to the mountain's law to avoid missteps or potentially serious falls (a sprain being the least of our worries). Two hours later, we reach Bucura.
The refuge
Following protocol, we arrive at the refuge to notify the mountain rescuers of our arrival and plans. Encountering acquaintances from last year, who were impressed by Radu, they inquire about his recent hikes. After setting up our tent and organising our gear, adrenaline still courses through us: we're in the heart of Retezat, where a piece of our heart resides. Therefore, a journey to Curmătura Bucurei is essential to admire the lake from above and declare: we are back home!
The site manager
And the day isn't over yet, as a group of young people approaches us. Nostalgically, I observe them – they remind me of the group George and I were part of when we first came here in 1988. They decide to pitch their tents next to ours, a wise choice given their struggle with setting up. Radu steps in as the 'site manager', swiftly organizing their camp and becoming their hero. This is just the beginning, as more adventures are yet to follow...
Day 2: Bucura – Zănoaga Lake – Bucura. Duration: 8 hours.
Good to know: Lake Zănoaga is a must-see for mountain lovers visiting Retezat. It is the second largest lake in the massif and the deepest glacial lake in Romania, reaching a depth of 29 meters. Formed approximately 200,000 years ago from the melting of a massive glacier, the Bucura – Zănoaga route is marked with a 'red triangle', initially shared with the 'Lakes circuit' route marked by a 'red dot'. The journey from Bucura to Zănoaga typically takes about 5 hours, including breaks. Expect challenging passages with steep ascents and descents on rocky terrain, as well as narrow beams requiring careful navigation. This route is recommended for experienced mountaineers.
The Blonde Beauty
In the morning, after breakfast, we check the weather at the Refuge: sunny all day. Our neighbors express interest in joining us; we suggest they accompany us only on the part of the route shared with the 'Lakes circuit', which leads to the stunning lakes at the heart of Retezat. As we ascend gently, we admire the ridges and marvel at the lake's beauty. Upon reaching Tăul Portii, we plan to part ways, but the boys insist on continuing to Zănoaga. A lone blonde beauty accompanies them, and each one strives to impress her with their prowess on Retezat's ridges and rocks. In a surprising twist, the one who impresses her the most with his skills is only 11 years old!
The Indian monom
Thus, we form a single-line and begin our ascent towards Judele Saddle. I lead the group, following the trail markers and guiding the others on where and how to step. Radu acts as the 'sweep', bringing up the rear to ensure no one is left behind or lost. We navigate the challenging sections slowly and cautiously, finally arriving at Zănoaga – an immense pleasure greets our eyes as we behold it.
The Little 'Supreme Commander'
After a 30-minute break, we are prepared to head back to Bucura. Decisively, Radu declares his intention to lead the group and reach the lake before sunset. Our friends find it amusing and playfully dub him 'the little supreme commander'. However, Radu is serious and sets a relentless pace for us (from their perspective), remaining steadfast even as we traverse the most challenging passages, like those around Şaua Judelui.
As a consequence of this (almost) forced march, we reach Bucura in about 3 hours—less than the estimated duration for this route. At the end, Radu wears a tired but satisfied expression, knowing he has accomplished his goal masterfully.
Day 3: Bucura–Peleaga–Bucura. Duration: 3 hours
Originally planned as a rest day to recuperate before tackling the 'Great Circuit', we spent the morning playing cards and reminiscing about our mountain hikes with our friends. Around 11 o'clock, Radu declared that he believed we had rested enough and proposed that we climb Peleaga Peak.
The Black Goat
Our friends immediately declined, stating they were not up for another hike with Radu. Undeterred, we set off alone on the 'red tape' route. Radu, brimming with energy, scaled the rocks along the way like a nimble black goat.
And so, with Radu in Olympic form, we reach Peleaga in record time. After taking a leisurely lunch break at 2509 meters (the height of the Peleaga peak), we are captivated by the surrounding scenery. Descending back to Bucura, we return to our tent where we will spend one more night before embarking tomorrow on our 'Great Adventure': the 'Grand Circuit' route—Bucura–Peleaga–Păpuşa–Portile Inchise–Tăul Galeş–Pietrele–Culmea Lolaia–Retezat Summit–Bucura.
Day 4: Bucura–Peleaga–Pupuşa–Closed Gates–Tăul Galeş–Pietrele. Duration: 10 hours.
Warning: The 'Grand Circuit' does not officially exist. We created and named it ourselves by combining several different routes. It is very long and physically demanding, featuring many sections of significant technical difficulty. We recommend it only for experienced mountaineers who do not take unnecessary risks (both conditions must be met simultaneously; this is what the adults in our group failed to do on April 22, 2017, and Erik and Geta tragically paid with their lives!). After a hearty breakfast, we pack our backpacks with essentials for the two days away from camp. We begin with the ascent to Peleaga via the 'yellow cross' route, which we already completed last year.
After a brief respite on this splendid peak, we continue towards Păpuşa at 2508 meters, the second largest in Retezat, following the same 'yellow cross' marked route. The descent towards Pelegii Saddle is mild before we gently ascend towards Păpuşa. However, caution is warranted: the path mostly traverses boulders of varying shapes and sizes, categorizing the route as moderately challenging in terms of technical difficulty.
The serious stuff
And now we embark on more challenging terrain: we set off towards Tăul Galeș following the 'Closed Gates' route marked with a 'red stripe'. The path spans a narrow ridge approximately 3 km long, sometimes exceedingly narrow. There are sections where we navigate steep cliffs, with several segments requiring ascents and descents of several meters. Only the initial section is equipped with a chain; the rest are not, demanding solid climbing skills and/or appropriate equipment—conditions that deter many mountaineers we encounter, forced to turn back.
The lake with the island
Fortunately, our prior experiences in Piatra Craiului equipped us with the necessary techniques (which we'll soon share on the blog). Our perseverance pays off as we're greeted by sweeping vistas of majestic slopes and stunning ridges. The ultimate reward awaits: a breathtaking view overlooking 'Tăul Tăpului', distinguished by its unique island.
The opening of the Closed Gates
And upon reaching 'Saua Vârful Mare', we realize that we have breached the 'Closed Gates'. From now on, Radu and I join the exclusive ranks of those who have traveled this route. From up there, we have a clear view of Tăul Galeş, marking the beginning of the trail to Cabana Pietrele with its 'red triangle' markings. We warmly congratulate ourselves for navigating the 'Closed Gates' successfully and begin our descent towards the lake. The slope is littered with stones and rocks, demanding our utmost attention as we proceed. We are tired yet euphoric, a mix that could easily lead to an accident if not careful.
We cover the route to Pietrele in just over two hours, finding it quite manageable; the path mostly follows the ground, with occasional stones and rocks. The hut is packed, but the owner manages to find us a spot, especially as our hike story and photos create a buzz among the guests.
Day 5: Pietrele–Culmea Lolaia–Retezat–Bucura. Duration: 9 hours and 30 minutes
Good to know: There are two routes from Cabana Pietrele to the Retezat peak. The most spectacular, yet challenging, is the 'yellow band', recommended only for experienced hikers in good physical condition. For others, we suggest the 'blue triangle' route around Lake Stănişoara. We opt for the first route for the latter part of the 'Great Circuit'. After a hearty breakfast and a photo session, we depart amidst warm encouragement from our fellow lodgers. We begin with a rigorous ascent, tackling steep slopes and negotiating numerous rocks along the way. Finally, we succeed and emerge onto the ridge.
The Grand Circuit
We follow the ridge, traverse the two Lolaia peaks (Lolaia North and Lolaia South) to reach the saddle bearing the same name. Time slips away unnoticed as we proceed along the path, despite occasional narrow stretches and challenging sections where we must navigate rocky terrain. The successive, spectacular views unfolding around us – mountain ridges, their peaks, and Gemini Lake within the Scientific Reserve (inaccessible for hiking) – enchant us so completely that we lose ourselves in their beauty, forgetting everything else around us.
The Scientific Reserve
Arriving at Saua Lolaia, we catch our breath and begin the final ascent to Vârful Retezat. The climb is steep, with stones and rocks obstructing our path, but they fail to slow our pace; after all, they are integral to the magic of Retezat. Without them, Retezat wouldn't be the mountain we cherish. Upon reaching the summit, we take a long break to admire the breathtaking view from above and to recount our journey to those who arrived via different routes. After a photo session, we head back to Bucura, once again warmly greeted and encouraged by fellow mountaineers. The sun shines brightly without a cloud in sight on the horizon. We proceed leisurely, savoring the splendors along the way: first the lakes of the Scientific Reserve, then those in the heart of the massif.
The rematch
And thus, this year we achieve our redemption from last year's semi-failure due to the rainy weather. A few hours later, we return to Bucura, where we had started yesterday morning, completing the circle: the 'Great Circuit', encompassing the most beautiful and spectacular routes in Retezat, has been conquered by us. We sleep soundly that night without a stir.
Day 6: Bucura–Curmatura Bucura–Bucura–Poiana Pelegii. Duration: 4 hours
In the morning, we enjoy breakfast with the mountain rescuers and other mountaineers eager to hear the tale of our two-day trek. Once more, we ascend Curmatura Bucurei to bid farewell to the lake and Retezat from its heights. Returning, we pack our belongings, dismantle the tent, and pack out our trash—leaving the mountain spotless in our wake. A final photo session captures our departure towards Poiana Pelegii, accompanied by the well-wishes of the mountain rescuers and fellow mountaineers, some of whom are already contemplating following in our footsteps along the route we just completed.
Nostalgia and the great departure
Feeling a bit melancholic as we leave our beloved Retezat behind, we reach Poiana Pelegii. While waiting for the taxi, we discuss and decide to return with Vlad, Radu's younger brother. It's essential to introduce him to this magical mountain, to instill in him a love for it, and teach him the mountain's laws. We choose the summer of 2018 for this adventure, when Vlad will also be 11 years old. Unfortunately, during the summers and falls of 2012, changes are occurring in Romania that I do not agree with, prompting us to permanently leave the country and settle in France (read 'Romania at the Crossroads: The West or Russia?'). Nonetheless, Vlad will receive his 'mountain baptism' in 2023 in the French Alps, specifically in the Belledonne massif. Coming soon: Belledone 2023 – Vlad and the Alps.
The map of the Retezat Massif with all the routes described in the article
The Scientific Reserve
Gemenele Scientific Reserve is a protected area of national interest situated in the central region of Retezat National Park, spanning 1630 hectares and classified under IUCN category I (scientific reserves). Established in 1955, the reserve strictly protects its habitats in their natural state, permitting only scientific activities with the approval of the Romanian Academy. In 1979, the Gemenele Scientific Reserve was integrated into the international network of reserves through UNESCO's biosphere protection program. Here, habitats remain undisturbed, prohibiting non-scientific human activities under the administration of Retezat National Park. The reserve hosts many of Retezat's 1190 species of higher plants, thriving in their natural environment. At the heart of the Gemenele Scientific Reserve, at an altitude of 1770 meters, stands the Laboratory House constructed by the Romanian Academy. Over the years, this facility has facilitated various scientific studies conducted by specialists observing pristine habitats devoid of human impact. By monitoring natural processes within the reserve, researchers can compare changes in environments accessible to the public in protected areas. Significant research has been conducted within the laboratory, focusing on Pinus species by Dr. Eng. Gheorghe Panzariu, highlighting the role of alpine junipers in erosion control, avalanche mitigation, and habitat protection for high-altitude species. Additionally, Dr. Gheorghe Coldea conducted botanical studies documented in "Flora from the Rodnei Mountains." The laboratory also served as a hub for the reintroduction of black goats into the Rodna Mountains from Retezat, Bucegi, Făgăraș, and Piatra Craiului. It hosted expeditions studying micromammals, ornithofauna, dendrochronology, orthoptera, and micromycetes, led by renowned specialists from Romania and abroad. The Laboratory House remains a starting point for numerous research expeditions involving students and scholars from around the world.
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