Rarely have I traveled to a more spectacular and active area than this rift—a veritable seething volcanic valley. I've had many wonderful travel experiences across the planet, but Waimangu Valley continues to inspire incredible emotions in me, even as I write, evoking the primal beginnings of the world. It's a fascinating place considered the birthplace of tourism in Aotearoa, New Zealand.
The exploration begins
Our exploration of the valley begins with a forest road that winds down, mirroring the meanders of a river, leading towards the valley with its boiling lakes. Beautiful trails offer ample hiking opportunities through the natural volcanic landscape. The journey culminates at the site where the White Terrace and Pink Terrace once stood (once considered the eighth wonder of the world) now submerged beneath the dark waters of Lake Rotomahana. Steam trails punctuate the landscape, amidst rich vegetation where splendid ferns unfurl their fronds in the sulfur-infused air.
The 'Black Water' Volcanic Rift
The Waimangu Volcanic Rift Valley is a hydrothermal system formed on June 10, 1886, following the violent eruption of Mount Tarawera. The valley encompasses Lake Rotomahana, where the famous terraced formations once flourished before their destruction, and the site of the Waimangu Geyser, active from 1900 to 1904 and still recognized as the world's largest geyser. Major attractions in the area include Frying Pan Lake and Inferno Crater, renowned for their steaming blue, green, yellow, and pale waters.
About the Eruption
'Waimangu' is a Te Reo Māori term meaning 'black water'. Legend attributes this name to the dark, muddy water ejected by the Waimangu geyser, filled with debris and rocks. Waimangu stands as the only geothermal system in the world formed in recent history, within the last 5000 years. The eruption of Mount Tarawera in 1886 devastated the Waimangu Valley, drastically enlarging Lake Rotomahana by twenty times its original size. The iconic Pink and White Terraces were either destroyed or buried beneath the lakebed. The eruption also obliterated all vegetation in the Waimangu Volcanic Valley and buried the village of Te Wairoa under layers of rocks, ash, and mud ejected during the cataclysmic event.
New Research
When the eruption of Mount Tarawera ceased at 05:30 on June 10, 1886, it left behind a dramatically altered landscape, rewriting the entire history of the area. Consequently, Waimangu remains the sole geothermal system in New Zealand untouched by human activity. The lake has been a focal point of extensive scientific research, with geologists and scientists striving to pinpoint the exact location and condition of the submerged terraces. In 2011, recent discoveries mapped the terraces' positions, and in 2012, intact sections of the terraces were identified by a submarine. Early in 2018, new findings challenged previous assumptions that the terraces lay buried deep within Lake Rotomahana, now twenty times its original size. GNS Science subsequently confirmed this hypothesis, concluding that the terraces are indeed submerged beneath the lake's murky waters.
National and Global Importance of the Waimangu Geothermal System
The Waimangu geothermal aquifer spans approximately 60 square kilometers and extends to depths of 2 to 3 kilometers into the Earth's crust. The sole area where hot springs emerge from this aquifer is the Waimangu Volcanic Rift Valley, situated in the southwest corner of the aquifer. Several surface features within Waimangu hold global significance. Inferno Crater is the largest geyser crater lake worldwide, while Lake Rotomahana hosts the largest warm water spring, known as Frying Pan Lake. The silica terraces include the unique Warbrick Terrace, notable for its right-angled growth pattern. Additionally, numerous small geysers and hot springs contribute to this complex volcanic ecosystem. A distinctive and unexplained relationship exists between the Inferno Crater Geyser and Frying Pan Lake, which will be discussed further. The geothermal system predating the 1886 eruption still operates beneath Lake Rotomahana, alongside a completely new system formed after the cataclysmic event. The lake lies within one of New Zealand's most active volcanic craters and stands as the country's largest and youngest natural lake.
Energy from the Depths
The geothermal features at Waimangu are profoundly intriguing, driven by a substantial amount of volcanic energy. This energy originates from a vast magma chamber located approximately two kilometers beneath the valley. The magma superheats the geothermal aquifer, with fluids from the aquifer surfacing along dikes and fissures created during the 1886 eruption.
Inferno Crater: The Largest Geyser Lake in the World
I relish the views of the enigmatic Inferno Crater, where the waters ebb and flow with the rhythms of heating and cooling. The trail skirts just meters from the seething waters, offering a glimpse of delicate sinter terraces forming from mineral deposits solidified by the hot water. Inferno Crater is renowned as the largest geyser lake globally, maintaining temperatures ranging between 35 and 80 degrees Celsius. Although the actual geyser remains submerged, its activity manifests through fumaroles visible along the lake's edge and on the rock wall behind it. At full capacity, the lake plunges to depths of 30 meters with temperatures reaching approximately 80 degrees Celsius. After each overflow, the lake's depth diminishes to 18 meters and cools to around 35 degrees Celsius. This remarkable cycle repeats every 38 days!
Frying Pan Lake: The Largest Hot Spring in the World
Moving on, the Waimangu Volcanic Rift Valley boasts the world's largest hot water spring, aptly named Frying Pan Lake. This shallow lake measures 6 meters deep with a surface area spanning 3.8 hectares. Frying Pan Lake maintains a steady water temperature of 55 degrees Celsius. The river feeding into the lake carries low acidity levels, but water emerging from its depths exhibits higher acidity. As a result, the lake's algae undergo vivid color changes that may appear chaotic, fluctuating between shades of blue, green, and yellow depending on acidity levels.
Symbiosis
The communication system between Frying Pan Lake and Inferno Crater is intricate: as the temperature rises in Frying Pan Lake, it decreases in Inferno Crater, and vice versa. This mutual interaction also extends to water levels, highlighting the unique symbiosis between these two lakes that form the hydrological system—a phenomenon unparalleled worldwide.
Rare Plants and Animals
Vividly coloured algae adorn the heated rocks, while small springs and geysers interplay nearby. As you wander, you'll encounter rare and unusual plants thriving in the warm landscapes of Waimangu, amidst regenerating native forests. This valley promises awe-inspiring volcanic craters, expansive hot springs, distinctive geothermal formations, and unique flora endemic to this region. Look out for a diverse array of birdlife, including the majestic kereru pigeon, the lively tui, the charismatic fantail, the elegant pukeko, the elusive ruru owls, and the boisterous parrots.
In the Heart of the Earth
Here, in the world's youngest geothermal valley, you can feel the heartbeat of the Earth and experience the beginnings of our planet. The volcanic eruption of Mount Tarawera in 1886 dramatically altered the landscape, submerging the renowned Pink and White Terraces—once considered Earth's largest silica deposits—into Lake Rotomahana. These terraces, formed over centuries, owe their existence to the rich geothermal waters flowing from hot geysers towards the lake. As the water cools, silica crystallizes, shaping terraces and pools. The pink hue of the Pink Terrace stemmed from sulphides in the water, akin to those at Wai-o-Tapu's Champagne Pool.
Terrace Tourism
The Pink and White Terraces marked New Zealand's inaugural tourist attraction. Travelers from across the globe journeyed to behold these natural wonders and bathe in the pools formed by volcanic activity. Visiting the terraces was an arduous endeavor, involving a steamship from Auckland to Tauranga, carts through Rotorua to Lake Tarawera, a boat ride across Lake Tarawera, a trek across the Isthmus Pass to Lake Rotomahana, and finally a canoe trip to the terraces. This era marked the dawn of European tourism in New Zealand, a time when ocean crossings took months by ship. A settlement, Te Wairoa, sprang up with accommodations for visitors, fostering a cultural tourism industry developed by the local Māori population. They established schools and became New Zealand's first tour guides.
For decades, attractions such as Rotorua's Wairoa Geyser ensured that the geothermal region in the heart of New Zealand's North Island remained the country's primary tourist destination. By 1912, the area was renowned as 'Geyserland' (see left). Thorpe Talbot's 1882 publication, 'The New Guide to Lakes and Hot Springs: A Month in Warm Water' (center), was the first tourist guide for New Zealand, focusing on the lakes and geothermal areas of the central North Island. Subsequent guides, such as the 1890 pamphlet 'The New Zealand Grand Tour' (right), promoted travel combining steamships, trains, wagons, horses, and foot travel. During this period, only a few thousand international tourists visited New Zealand annually.
A Photographic Document
Before their destruction and submersion by the 1886 eruption of Mount Tarawera, the pink and white terraces at Rotomahana were a spectacular tourist attraction. These terraces featured natural silica pools where visitors could bathe. In the 1880s, visiting these terraces was the highlight of a journey to the Antipodes, whether one was traveling to Australia or New Zealand. This photo is one of the few remaining images of the White Terrace.
Cruise Above the Sunken Terraces
We continue to explore this remarkable natural environment, untouched by human hands since its formation in 1886. Rotomahana, New Zealand's youngest naturally formed great lake, remains one of the region's most significant attractions. During the 19th century, travelers flocked to Rotomahana drawn by the allure of the legendary terraces. Today, visitors can opt for an Ariki Moana boat cruise above these submerged marvels, imagining their turbulent past and enigmatic future—a place seemingly touched by divine forces.
Lake Rotomahana
Rotomahana ranks among the deepest lakes in New Zealand's North Island. It is protected not only for its invaluable geological significance but also as a vast sanctuary for New Zealand's rare wildlife and birds. What sets this lake apart is its more than 200 active thermal springs located at its depths, underscoring its unique and pristine natural state.
The Black Swans of Lake Rotomahana
Lake Rotomahana spans 890 hectares and lies southwest of the dormant volcano Mount Tarawera. The landscape of this lake underwent significant changes due to the major eruption of Mount Tarawera in 1886. Both the mountain and the lake are situated within the Ōkataina Caldera. It stands as New Zealand's newest natural lake and is the deepest in the Rotorua district, reaching depths of 118 meters. Designated as a wildlife sanctuary, Lake Rotomahana prohibits all forms of hunting and fishing. A thriving population of black swans calls the lake home, and ongoing efforts ensure that Pātītī Island, the largest island on the lake, remains free from pests such as possums and rodents. Recent studies confirm Pātītī Island as the sole survivor from the pre-eruption era of the ancient lake, previously known as Rangipakaru Hill. Public access to the lake is restricted, except via designated tourist trails.
The Cruise Experience
The lake cruise lasts 45 minutes, with transportation provided by boat from the entrance to the pier and back after the tour. Due to high demand, advance bookings are advisable, particularly during the peak season from November to March each year. As of July 2024, the cost for the cruise is NZ$51.
Exploring a Volcanic Valley in New Zealand
This area of New Zealand offers a stunning volcanic valley and is a testament to the wonders that await travelers and residents alike in Aotearoa. Beauty lies just a few steps away from us!
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