BRITTANY: THE PINK GRANITE COAST
- angelogeorge988
- May 24
- 11 min read
Updated: May 26
France, a fairytale shore, where the rocks and traces of human activity share the same hue and tell stories of the sea. I invite you to discover them in the pages that follow.
Brittany is a magnificent region of stories and legends, as well as sublime landscapes—a place for the French much like Maramureș is for Romanians. In 2019, together with Vlad, my youngest son, I travelled by bicycle along its coast, ending our journey in Ploumanac’h, on the Pink Granite Coast (Côte de Granit Rose, in the original French), located in the southern part of the Côtes-d'Armor department (the equivalent of a county in Romania). According to geologists, it stretches for 10 kilometres between the communes of Perros-Girec and Trébeurden.
Our Journey
No matter what the maps may say, for us, the Pink Granite Coast begins at the Plougrescant Fault. From there, we set off toward Ploumanac’h, after visiting the Château de la Roche-Jagu and the port of Lézardrieux (described in Brittany: The Castle and the Sea), followed by the town of Tréguier and the Plougrescant Fault (see Brittany: The Crevasse and the Town).
We had about 30 kilometres to cover to reach our destination—a fairly long distance for us, already several days into the trip and still riding mountain bikes.
Pors Scaff
Between the Gouffre de Plougrescant and Ploumanac’h, there is no cycle path, so we chose to follow a road that ran fairly close to the coastline. That’s how we reached a place called Pors Scaff: a landscape of pastures and rock formations whose shapes seem to shift constantly with the tides and whose hues change depending on the angle of the light.
When the time came for the tide to recede, we could see the water pulling back and the rocks taking on a variety of shapes. It was a magnificent sight, but we had to leave quickly, as there was still a long way to go. Still, wanting to prolong the pleasure of watching this spectacle just a little longer, we continued along what might generously be called trails. And we did so for several hundred metres—something that put our trailer’s tyres to the test.
One of the tyres eventually burst—fortunately, after we had returned to the road. While we stood there, somewhat desperate, assessing the situation and trying to come up with a solution, a car pulled over beside us. A woman got out and offered to help, taking our trailer and all its contents—tent, sleeping bags, and clothes—to our destination: the campsite in Ploumanac’h. It was an incredible gesture.
As a token of gratitude, we offered her a box of Breton biscuits—our most treasured possession, given how much we love them. She laughed and politely declined, saying the factory was just a few hundred metres from her home. As we parted, she suggested we pass through Anse du Pellinec and Port-Blanc.
Anse du Pellinec
It’s a small bay where many migratory and overwintering birds can be observed, drawn by the constant availability of food. Another point of interest is a wooden boat, almost entirely covered by water at high tide.
At low tide, when the sea recedes, the bay can be crossed via a dirt track known as the Passage du Pellinec. We took this route as we made our way toward Port-Blanc.
Port-Blanc
Also called Pors Gwen in the native Breton language, it is a small coastal port in the Trégor region of the Côtes-d'Armor department. Once a peaceful haven and refuge for sailors, today it is a seaside resort belonging to the town of Penvénan. The spectacular cliffs provide a picturesque backdrop, the most imposing being the Sentinel Rock. At its summit stands a small chapel topped with a cross.
At its foot once stood a small shrine featuring statues of Saint Tugdual and Notre-Dame de la Mer. These were later moved to the chapel of Notre-Dame de Port-Blanc. This partially sunken chapel, dating from the 16th century, was built on the foundations of a 13th-century watchtower.
Every year, on September 8th, a distinctive religious ceremony called 'the Grazière' takes place, with the sailors’ blue cross leading the procession that starts from this chapel. Four eight-year-old boys, dressed as sailors, take turns carrying a small schooner, in remembrance of the great fishing expeditions to Iceland. The girls carry a small golden Virgin, while others escort them holding blue ribbons. The statue of the Virgin Mary is carried by two fishermen. Songs dedicated to the Virgin Mary, as well as Breton hymns, are sung, after which a wreath is laid in the sea in memory of those who have died over the past year. The people then pray for a bountiful fishing season and for the protection of sailors.
On the Road to Ploumanac’h
Leaving Port-Blanc, we headed straight for Ploumanac’h. We allowed ourselves only brief stops—just enough time to admire and photograph some of the beautiful corners of Brittany we passed along the way.
When we arrived at the campsite, we were surprised not to find our trailer at reception. In fact, the campsite staff had already chosen a spot for our tent and had placed all our belongings there. We then spent some time with them, sharing stories about our adventures and the magnificent places we had discovered during our journey.
Instead, they advised us to begin with a visit to the Marine Aquarium in Trégastel to learn more about the Pink Granite Coast.
Marine Aquarium
The place is impressive: part of it is built inside a massive rock. The first hall, called the Tidal Zone, showcases life that thrives with the rhythm of the ebb and flow. The second hall, the Deep Zone, is dedicated to marine life from the depths.
We then step outside onto a massive block of pink granite measuring 22 metres long, 15 metres wide, and weighing nearly 5,500 tonnes. Here we discover the Spray Zone, where seawater never reaches—not even during the strongest high tides—creating extreme living conditions: constant rain, sun, and wind. From this vantage point, we can also admire the surrounding area, the town, and the coastline, as well as the statue known as the “Eternal Father” (Père Éternel in French). Originally named the “Statue of the Good Savior” (Statue du Bon-Sauveur), it was erected in 1869 atop a cliff overlooking the nearby Coz-Pors beach. It was blessed on July 22 of the same year, intended to “help local sailors and strangers visiting our shores lift their thoughts toward God.”
Seeing it up there, we told ourselves there’s still a purpose for its existence: to watch over the Aquarium and the Pink Granite Coast from above, like a silent, steadfast guardian of the sea and the rocks.
Why the “Pink Granite Coast”?
Up there as well, we found scientific information sheets about the coast. It was formed nearly 300 million years ago by the slow cooling of magma from a volcano. Over time, the sea and winds helped shape it, adding other minerals to its composition. The distinctive pink colour mainly comes from potassium feldspar, which, combined with quartz and mica, gives these rocks their unique appearance—the hallmark of the region.
The Colour of the Granite
The dominant color of the rocks ranges from brown to pink, due to the presence of three minerals in the stone’s composition: shiny black mica; quartz, with its translucent gray reflections; and feldspar, which gives the pink hue. The intensity of this pink varies depending on the oxidation level of the feldspar and its proportion within the granite.
Coz-Pors Beach
Of course, after leaving the Aquarium, we went straight to Coz-Pors Beach—not for a swim, since we didn’t have our swimsuits—but to admire the rock formation where the statue known as the “Eternal Father” once stood. The sun was shining so brightly that everyone had left the sand to take refuge in the water.
We paused for a moment to admire the dazzling white sand, which made the colors of the rocks stand out even more vividly. Naturally, Vlad immediately climbed up a rock and, once at the top, shouted to me, “Dad, look at me, I’m the Eternal Father now!”
‘Dragon’s Head’
Now that we had gained so much knowledge about the Pink Granite Coast, we set out to explore it, starting from Ploumanac’h, where our campsite was located. We followed the coastal path known as the Customs Officers’ Trail (Sentier des Douaniers in French), which winds among countless rocks piled seemingly at random—some stacked atop one another or balanced so precariously they seem almost unreal. With their rounded edges and varied shapes, sometimes bizarre, sometimes remarkably recognizable, the Pink Granite Coast is a true mineral masterpiece—a natural sculpture that delights and surprises at every turn.
Among these is the formation called the “Dragon’s Head.” Vlad refused to climb this pile of rocks, pretending to be scared and jokingly saying he was afraid of “dragons.” Yet the wide, bright smile lighting up his face betrayed the joy of play and adventure.
Climbing the rocks
As we continue our walk, we move slowly along the trail, taking time to admire the stunning rock formations that appear along the way. Vlad climbs them with an ease that feels like a love letter to this place, and I follow him sometimes, sharing that same childlike delight.
It is not a matter of bravado, but a sincere expression of the deep passion we have for these magnificent rocks. Climbing them does not just mean testing our balance or strength, but, above all, showing them respect — pressing our palms against the warm stone, caressing it in search of a good hold, merging for a moment with its shape and silent history. And so, from one rock to another, almost like through a quiet ritual, we arrived at what the locals call “Șina.”
Anse de Pors Kamor
“Portz-ar-Mor” — this is its name in Breton. It is the only point in Ploumanac’h from which one can head out to sea at any time of day, whether at high tide or low tide. Here stands the building that houses the lifeboat of the Société Nationale de Sauvetage en Mer (SNSM), a volunteer organization dedicated to providing free assistance to people in danger at sea. On December 22, 1912, it was from here that the first rescue boat was launched, elegantly named in French “Le Commandant Gentil” (“The Polite Commander”). Since then, and up to today, five more vessels have followed its example, saving countless lives that would otherwise have been lost to the depths..
Today, the boathouse shelters the Président Toutain, a 15.5-meter-long vessel capable of withstanding any weather and reaching speeds of up to 20 knots. It is reputed to be unsinkable and self-righting. Particularly striking is the “Slipway” — the launch path the lifeboat follows for rapid deployment at sea. This is, in fact, a 113-meter ramp, operational even during storms, regardless of their intensity.
The Mean Ruz Lighthouse
The current lighthouse is the second to bear this name. It was built to replace the grey granite tower erected in 1860, which was destroyed by German troops in 1944. Its official name, Mean Ruz, derives from the Breton language: maen ruz, meaning “red stone” — a fitting name, as it stands on a warm-toned rock that mirrors the characteristic pink granite dominating the coastline.
The lighthouse we admire today was built from pinkish-red granite between 1946 and 1948, designed to blend harmoniously with the surrounding landscape and to delight the eye of visitors. It integrates so seamlessly into the scenery that some sailors have complained of difficulty spotting it from a distance. Nevertheless, its essential function is to mark the entrance to the navigable channel leading to the port of Ploumanac’h. At night, however, it becomes easily identifiable thanks to its flashing red light, which at regular intervals turns white, making it visible from afar.
From the lighthouse promontory, one can enjoy a remarkable view of the pink granite cliffs along the shore and the nearby islands. Although the interior of the Mean Ruz lighthouse is not open to the public, visitors can descend to its base and explore the area beneath the structure. Vlad, of course, did not hesitate to take full advantage of the opportunity.
Costaérès Castle
Built between 1892 and 1896 in a neo-Gothic style inspired by medieval castles, the structure is made from local pink granite quarried nearby. Although commonly referred to as a “castle,” the building more closely resembles the grand holiday manors typical of the late 19th century. Its interior was fitted with timber salvaged from the wreck of the three-masted ship Maurice, which ran aground in 1896. The name Costaérès derives from the Breton term coz-seherez, meaning “old drying place”—a reference to the traditional practice of local fishermen who once dried their catch on the small island where the structure now stands.
Costaérès Castle has long served as a place of refuge and inspiration for numerous Polish émigrés, among them the writer Henryk Sienkiewicz, recipient of the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1905. It was here, in this spectacular and secluded setting, that he wrote his masterpiece Quo Vadis, published in 1895—a work that would earn him international acclaim. Today, the castle is privately owned and not open to the public, but it remains an imposing sight, rising from the rocky island on which it was built.
The End of the Vacation, Summer 2019
A little later, we arrived at Trégastel, the final point of our walk that day. It also marked the end of our journey that summer, as the next day we were to head home. We left the Pink Granite Coast behind with a mixture of regret and gratitude, carrying in our hearts the image of its fantastic rocks, the waves patiently breaking in the same place for millions of years, and the Breton sun that, at times, accompanied us with its rare smile.
But we will always remember the wonderful landscapes we encountered during our vacation, the stories we heard, and the hospitality and kindness of the locals. “We will return” — this is our promise.
2023: The Reunion
We kept our promise: four years later, we returned, this time accompanied by Radu, my eldest son, so he could also discover the wonders of the Pink Granite Coast. We started from Pointe du Château, in Perros-Guirec, a huge rocky promontory jutting out into the sea.
Once a strategically important defensive position for the area, this site now offers magnificent views of the surroundings from its summit. To reach the top, one must climb a staircase carved directly into the stone steps.
But Vlad and Radu preferred to climb the rocks, which they found far too easy for their mountaineering skills. The clouds drifted by—sometimes gathering in dense waves, other times thinning out. We paid them no mind—the landscape was too beautiful to be disturbed by something as trivial as the risk of rain. Still captivated by the rocks, Radu agreed to take a few photos beside them.
Vlad is now relieved: he no longer has to pose every five meters, as I used to insist before we stopped for a photograph. Our walk today ends at the Mean Ruz lighthouse, which the three of us admire together for a few moments.
Renote Island
The following day, we concluded our trip along the Pink Granite Coast with a visit to Renote Island.
Originally, it was an island accessible only on foot during low tide. However, since 1885, it has become a peninsula following the construction of a road that allows access even at high tide. On the isthmus formed by sand and rocks—the land bridge connecting the island to the mainland—there is even a small parking area, but beyond that point, traffic is permitted only for pedestrians.
In about an hour — including, of course, the obligatory photo sessions — we complete the circuit around the area by following the coastal path. The granite blocks, sculpted by the combined forces of water, wind, and sun, rise in unexpected arrangements that seem to defy the laws of balance. Their presence transforms this peninsula into a mineral chaos of unique beauty, adding even more magic to the Pink Granite Coast.
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