FRANCE: THE ROYAL FORTRESS OF CHINON

Chinon is a city where the allure of its surroundings perfectly intertwines with French history. While the Royal Fortress ('la Forteresse Royale' in French) stands as the main attraction, the city itself is well worth exploring and admiring. The Vienne River, which meanders through and divides the city, adds an extra layer of charm.

Loire Valley Castles Tour by Bike

In 2020, I visited Chinon with my wife to showcase this stunning region of France. She was deeply impressed by everything she experienced, and the trip greatly contributed to our recovery from the lingering effects of the first COVID-19 lockdown. A few months later, we returned, this time bringing our sons, Radu and Vlad. They had last seen the city six years earlier, during our first visit in 2014, when we had toured the castles of the Loire Valley ('Val de Loire' in French) by bicycle.

To the Fortress

In 2020, we stayed at the hotel, but in 2014, during the summer, we pitched our tent at a campsite on the opposite side of the river, directly facing the Citadel. Each time, as soon as we finished setting up and arranging our belongings, we rushed off to visit the Fort. The magnificent view of the Fort from our campsite left us no choice but to go immediately; it was impossible to delay even for a moment.

The Royal Fortress of Chinon

Chinon is a city where natural beauty seamlessly blends with the rich history of France. The Royal Fortress ('la Forteresse Royale' in French) is undoubtedly the main attraction, but the city itself is equally worth exploring and appreciating. The Vienne River, which winds through and divides Chinon, adds an extra touch of charm.

Initial Documentary References

The earliest reference to a fortification at this site dates to around AD 450, towards the end of the Western Roman Empire, describing a Roman-type castrum. Between 500 AD and 1000 AD, the fortress gradually took shape, evolving into a form similar to what we see today. Subsequent additions primarily aimed to reinforce the existing structure. Its peak period of significance spanned from 1000 to 1500, after which it fell into decline as it lost its strategic importance and was overshadowed by Renaissance-style castles. Around 1855, the fortress drew the interest of Prosper Mérimée, a writer, historian, and Inspector General of Historical Monuments. Mérimée, known for his efforts in restoring historic buildings, initiated the first renovation work on the fortress that year.

The Three Castles

Today, we can admire this magnificent historical site, which is described as comprising three distinct 'castles': 1. The Coudray Tower ('la Tour de Coudray'), easily identifiable by its cylindrical shape; 2. The Middle Castle or Royal Residences ('Château du Milieu' or 'Logis Royaux'); and 3. Fort Saint George ('Fort Saint-Georges'). Personally, I consider the Clock Tower ('la Tour de l'Horloge'), the tallest building on the site, to be the third 'castle'. Each of these structures has its own history associated with significant historical figures, which I will briefly outline below in chronological order.

St. George's Fort: The Plantagenets

The Plantagenets were the dynasty that ruled England from 1154 to 1485 and held numerous possessions in France, including the noble titles of Duke of Normandy, Duke of Aquitaine, and Count of Poitou and Nantes. Archaeological excavations conducted between 2003 and 2010 at the site of the former Fort Saint George revealed the existence of a Plantagenet palace dating back to around 1160. Historical chronicles confirm that Henry II, King of England from 1154 to 1189, stayed at Chinon on several occasions.

His final visit occurred in early July 1189, when he sought refuge there while being pursued by a coalition led by Philip II Augustus, King of France, and his own son, Richard the Lionheart, who sought to usurp him. Shortly after arriving at Chinon, Henry II died there and was subsequently buried at the nearby Fontevraud Royal Abbey. Today, on the site where the palace and Fort Saint George once stood, a visitor center with ticket counters and a souvenir shop was established in 2010.

Coudray Tower - Knights Templar

In the early 12th century, the Catholic Church established the Order of the Temple, a military and monastic order formed to protect the Holy Land—primarily the regions around Jerusalem, Bethlehem, and Nazareth. Headed by a Grand Master, the members, known as Knights Templar (or simply Templars), were bound by monastic rules and had to be at least 18 years old. Over time, they participated in numerous crusades. However, after several defeats, they were driven from Jerusalem and the Holy Land. By around 1300, the majority of the Templars had settled in France, where they had grown into a formidable force, numbering around 15,000 men, including 1,500 knights. When they refused to submit to the authority of King Philip IV of France, also known as Philip the Fair, he moved to arrest them and dissolve the order. This action began on October 13, 1307. Jacques de Molay, the last Grand Master of the Order, along with four other high-ranking members, was imprisoned in the Coudray Tower at Chinon for four months in 1308.

During their detention at Chinon, the Templars were interrogated extensively and, under duress, confessed to various crimes, whether real or fabricated. In 1314, these confessions led to their conviction and execution. According to legend, the graffiti—featuring stylized figures, crosses, and geometric shapes—that we see in the underground passages of Coudray Tower were created by the Templars during their months of imprisonment there.

The Royal Residences - Joan of Arc

Since the age of 13, Joan of Arc ('Jeanne d'Arc') claimed to hear divine voices of saints who assigned her three missions: 1) to lift the siege of Orléans; 2) to crown Charles VII at Reims Cathedral; and 3) to drive the English out of France. In early 1429, she traveled to Chinon to meet Charles VII, who was facing a dire situation. Although he was the King of France, his rule was threatened by the English and their allies, and much of his territory was slipping from his control because he had not yet been crowned at Reims, as required by tradition.

Their meeting at Chinon is famously depicted in the legendary scene known as 'La Reconnaissance.' According to legend, Charles VII disguised himself as a simple courtier and mingled with the crowd, pretending to await the appearance of the king. Joan, however, was not deceived; she recognized him immediately and addressed him as her king. While historians debate the historical accuracy of this account, it is widely recognized that both their initial and subsequent meetings took place at the 'Royal Residences' in Chinon.

From Chinon, as an envoy of the King of France, Joan of Arc led a supply convoy to Orléans. Successfully entering the city, which was under siege by the English and their allies, she inspired the defenders and, with the support of her accompanying troops, they managed to repel the English attacks and lift the siege. Bolstered by this victory, Joan of Arc met Charles VII once again, and together they embarked on a daring journey through enemy-controlled territories to Reims. There, Charles VII was crowned King of France, securing both legal and symbolic dominance over the English. However, Joan's fortunes took a tragic turn. Captured by the English, she was sentenced to death in a sham trial that scandalously ignored even the minimal standards of justice of the time. Though she may have made mistakes during her life and her past achievements could have faded from memory, her brutal execution—burned alive at the stake—transformed her into a martyr and enduring symbol. The inspiration she provided contributed to Charles VII's eventual victory over the English, fulfilling the third and final mission of the 'Maid' ('la Pucelle'). Statues in her honor have since been erected in Chinon, Orléans, Blois, and many other towns and villages across France.

Vienne River Cruise

In 2014, we had the pleasure of taking a cruise on the Vienne River. The knowledgeable captain shared many fascinating stories and anecdotes about the river, Fortress, and the lives of people from bygone eras. Unfortunately, when we returned in 2020, the cruise was unavailable due to restrictions imposed by the Covid-19 pandemic. Nevertheless, our memories of that river trip remained vivid. Thankfully, as of 2024, Covid-19 is a troubling memory of the past, and boat trips on the Vienne River have resumed, allowing us to relive those cherished experiences.

The light show

In 2014, we were also lucky enough to admire it after dark. Unfortunately, when I visited Fortress in 2020, this show could no longer be held (Covid-19, of course). But now, in 2024, he's back, and there's no doubt that the light shows are even more beautiful and spectacular than the ones we saw back then in 2014.

The Ramparts

A walk along the ramparts of the Fortress is a must, of course. From up there, we can see the inner courtyard of the fortress and we can imagine how crowded it was with peasants, merchants or knights. And if the imagination is not enough, the 'HistoPad' tablets (which we receive at the entrance when we buy the tickets to use them inside the fortress) will be of great help. But it's more than that: while walking on the ramparts, we can imagine the guards of the fortress making their rounds, the battles they fought, as well as the siege of 1205. Then Philip Augustus, the king of France, managed to conquer the fortress from the English after a siege of nine months; later, he will order the construction of Couldray Tower).

The Clock Tower

In its lowest part was the entrance gate to the Middle Castle/Royal Residence; in the Middle Ages; the access was protected by a mobile bridge and a hersa (a metal grill that served as an auxiliary gate barrier), both of which have long since disappeared. The tower is five stories high and has a terrace on the top level, a key element in the defense of the fortress. From up there, the guards watched over the entire surrounding region. Today, we can enjoy the beautiful view of the area from this height, a well-deserved reward after a somewhat tiring ascent.

The name of the Tower derives from the impressive clock that has been housed inside since 1399. An inscription reveals the name of its creator, Henri Cressaut, and the date of its construction. The three fleur-de-lis engraved alongside the inscription, symbolizing French royalty, indicate that the clock was commissioned by the King.

A City Made of 'Tuffeau Blanc'

Information: Tuff, or 'tuffeau blanc,' is a fine-grained limestone composed of remains of organisms and rock fragments deposited by rivers. This soft, luminous stone is a hallmark of the Loire Valley and a key element of its cultural identity. It has been traditionally used in the construction of castles, abbeys, and various other buildings, including homes, throughout the region. As Chinon is part of this area, strolling through the city is a visual and aesthetic delight. The city is divided by the Vienne River, with the oldest and most captivating part, featuring the Fortress, situated on one side. The narrow streets, reminiscent of the Middle Ages, are lined with buildings constructed from 'tuffeau blanc,' each one a marvel in its own right.

I also recommend setting aside time to visit the Church of Saint-Étienne de Chinon, constructed between 1460 and 1490. Its facade is adorned with an entrance flanked by two columns, each richly decorated with intricate stone carvings. Inside, the church features seven transverse sections: the first five form the nave, while the last two constitute the choir. Notably, the chapel dedicated to Joan of Arc, who was canonized in 1920, is particularly remarkable.

Goodbye, Chinon

Our visit to Chinon has come to an end. Strolling through the city and marveling at the unique and stunning architecture of the Loire Valley extended the sense of wonder that the Royal Fortress had inspired in us. As we departed for home, I crossed the bridge over the Vienne River and took one last, lingering look at the fortress. This bridge and fortress symbolize the perfect union of the Old World and the New. This final image, along with countless others, is etched in our memory, ensuring that Chinon and its Royal Fortress will forever hold a special place in our hearts and souls.