MONT‑DORE, THE NOBLE OF SANCY

Series: Puy de Sancy – Le Grand.

“In the summer of 2021, we were in convalescence. Since March 2020, the French government had put us into lockdown three times.” What was supposedly meant to protect us from Covid‑19 ended up exhausting us mentally. Fortunately, the Puys — the volcanic mountains of central France — were there to heal us. Especially Le Puy de Sancy and the splendid town of Mont‑Dore.

Setting out to explore this beautiful corner of France in the summer of 2021 felt less like a choice and more like a necessity — even an obligation. The previous summer, we had crossed the Chaîne des Puys, starting from Clermont‑Ferrand. Speaking with locals, we told them how much we had enjoyed our time there and that we intended to return. They were delighted, but advised us to explore Puy de Sancy, starting from Mont‑Dore — an essential stage, a rite of passage completing our encounter with the famous Puy de Pariou, Puy de Dôme, and Puy de Côme.

The Names of the Mountain

‘Puy de Sancy’ has not always borne this name, but only since the end of the 18th century. Before that, the peak was called Mondor or Moun‑Dor, referring to the noble estate in which it stood. Today, the transformed name Mont‑Dore is carried by the town at the mountain’s base. The town flourished during the Belle Époque (1871–1914), as its architecture clearly shows.

“Mont‑Dore” or “Le Mont‑Dore”?

The old name Moun‑Dor comes from Auvergnat, a local dialect of the Occitan language, itself descended from Vulgar Latin. Adopted into French, it became Mont‑Dore. Locals, however, prefer Le Mont‑Dore, the definite article signalling uniqueness — that this is the Mont‑Dore, not to be confused with any other place of similar name. And so it proudly appears on shop signs and road markers.

“Mont‑Dore” or “Mont d’Or”?

The difference is purely orthographic; the pronunciation is nearly identical. Mont d’Or — “Mountain of Gold” — reflects the reality on the ground: the wealth of this commune comes from its proximity to Puy de Sancy. In winter, lovers of skiing and snow sports flock here, drawn by snowy slopes and numerous facilities.

In summer, it becomes a paradise for hikers, offering trails of all lengths and difficulties.

And in the summer of 2021, among the hikers crossing the paths of Puy de Sancy, was our exceptional team: myself, Angelo, my wife Irina, and our two children, Radu (the elder) and Vlad (the younger). We climbed the most important peaks — Sancy, Roc de Cuzeau, Capucin — and traversed the mountain ridge. Splendid, magazine‑worthy images engraved themselves forever in our minds and hearts.

Aquatic Treasures

Thus, Puy de Sancy is a true gold mine for Mont‑Dore. Three beautiful waterfalls delight visitors — true aquatic nuggets — easily accessible on foot from town. A loop trail from the Paysager cemetery parking leads to the Rossignol and Queureuilh waterfalls. From the town centre, another trail climbs to La Grande Cascade, a magnificent waterfall at one end of the mountain ridge.

Another jewel of the same aquatic family is Lake Guéry, a few kilometres from Mont‑Dore. We visited it on the first day of our Sancy holiday, for a “warm‑up” hike before tackling the mountain trails — an easy walk with lovely landscapes hiding behind the trees.

Other Treasures: The Baths of Mont‑Dore

The 19th century marked the rediscovery of Mont‑Dore’s benefits as a spa town. These were already known in the Gallo‑Roman era; evidence includes remains of an urban settlement, a temple, and thermal baths discovered from 1824 onward.

A striking contrast exists between the exterior of the main Thermes building — elegant yet sober and austere — and its interior, rich and sumptuously decorated.

From the second half of the 19th century onward, spa tourism exploded. A wealthy clientele began to “take the waters,” leading to the construction of elegant villas, sumptuous palaces, casinos, bandstands, covered markets, train stations, and parks.

Hiking

Mont‑Dore’s waters are renowned for their curative properties in rheumatology and respiratory conditions. Nature did its part: once the thermal treatment ends, visitors can choose among numerous walks and hikes to complete their cure. One gentle walk around Salon du Capucin offers magnificent views of the Sancy ridge and the town.

You can reach the top easily thanks to the Funiculaire du Capucin, a remarkable industrial masterpiece from the late 19th century, declared a historic monument in 1984. This small cable‑pulled train — still operating today — climbs the valley slope at one metre per second. It is the oldest electric funicular in France, “ecological before ecology became fashionable.”

The more athletic can opt for the hike to La Grande Cascade, ideally located where the mountain ridge ends. The trail begins in front of the thermal baths, is just over 2 km long, and climbs 300 metres. Wooden steps help hikers on steeper or slippery sections.

Once in front of the waterfall, a longer pause is needed to admire its beauty and grandeur. At over 30 metres high, it is one of the tallest waterfalls in the Massif Central.

Those who reach it should continue along the Sancy ridge. Wooden steps ease the ascent toward Roc du Cuzeau. The reward: magnificent views of the waterfall, the town from above, and a spectacularly sculpted rock formation.

We, however, reached La Grande Cascade via the ridge trail starting from the summit of Puy de Sancy (1,885 m). We began at the upper cable‑car station, climbing the wooden staircase to the summit: “only” 864 steps and about 100 metres of elevation gain. The beauty of the landscape made us forget the effort instantly.

It was a long 9‑km hike with roughly +300 m ascent and –1,000 m descent — perhaps the most difficult in the region. The highlight, after passing Puy de Sancy, was climbing Roc du Cuzeau (1,737 m) and enjoying the impressive views from above.

The Road to Puy de Sancy

To reach the summit, there are two options, both starting from the large parking area about 4 km from town: on foot, via a sometimes steep trail with a few slightly difficult passages — about 3 km and 400 m ascent to the wooden staircase.

By cable car, which carries visitors rapidly upward. The volcanic scenery is so beautiful you almost regret arriving too quickly. From the upper station, the staircase begins.

Saint‑Pardoux Church

In every French town stands a church — even a cathedral in larger towns. Despite France’s secularism, these churches are essential heritage sites attracting crowds of tourists. Mont‑Dore is no exception: here stands Saint‑Pardoux Church.

Saint Pardoux, whose statue stands to the right of the entrance, is a saint to whom popular belief attributes numerous miraculous healings thanks to “miraculous waters” — exactly what Mont‑Dore is known for. Built between 1852 and 1855, the church blends styles: neo‑Gothic outside, neo‑Romanesque inside. It was extended in 1886 with the crypt Notre‑Dame‑des‑Malades.

Departure

When we had to return home, we were both sad and happy. Sad because our holiday had ended; happy because we had seen unforgettable things — buildings, waterfalls, a volcanic mountain whose landscapes resembled folded mountains like the Alps.

In conclusion: the best way to recover from Covid‑19 — and especially from the ‘treatment’ based on lockdown imposed by the government — is to go on holiday, outdoors, in a beautiful town.