Oamaru is the largest city in North Otago, located on the South Island of New Zealand. It serves as the main settlement in the Waitaki District. Situated 80 kilometers south of Timaru and 120 kilometers north of Dunedin along the Pacific coast, Oamaru is a charming destination. In this article, you will explore not only the city itself but also its renowned tourist attractions. You'll take a virtual tour of the stunning white stone monuments, the urban attractions of Oamaru, and the famous and enigmatic Moeraki boulders, as well as the colony of the world's smallest penguins.
About Oamaru
With a population of over 14,000, Oamaru is the 28th largest urban area in New Zealand and the third largest in Otago, following Dunedin and Queenstown. The city serves as the seat of the Waitaki District, which encompasses the surrounding towns of Kurow, Weston, Palmerston, and Hampden, collectively totaling a population of 23,200. Oamaru's name derives from a Māori term meaning "the place where the fire is sheltered." It was established as a grazing area in 1853, and the town began enhancing its harbor in 1872, situated along a small bay.
Built in Limestone
Oamaru is situated between rolling limestone hills and a narrow stretch of flat land that leads to the sea. This local limestone, often referred to as "Whitestone," is prominently used in local construction. The streets of Oamaru are named after British rivers, particularly those in the northwest and southeast of the country.
Maru's Place
The name Oamaru comes from Māori and can be translated as "Place of Maru," in reference to Maru, a significant figure in Māori mythology. Timaru, a neighboring town, is much larger than Oamaru. Several important archaeological sites surround Oamaru, particularly at the mouth of the Waitaki River and at Awamoa. These sites date back to the archaic phase of Māori culture, known as the moa-hunting period, when human populations in New Zealand began to cluster along the southeast coast around 1100 AD.
The Opera House and the Library
Oamaru's stunning opera house, located on Thames Street, officially opened its doors on October 7, 1907. It serves as the venue for most of the city's live performances and underwent restoration in 2009. The Waitaki District Library has branches in the surrounding satellite towns of Palmerston, Kurow, Hampden, Omarama, and Otematata. Many public buildings in Oamaru are constructed using the local limestone known as Oamaru Stone. The Victorian precinct on the southern side of the main shopping district is considered one of New Zealand's most impressive streetscapes, featuring numerous prominent 19th-century buildings made from this material. Several key historic structures located around Harbor Street, lower Thames Street, Itchen Street, and the Tyne Street area have been preserved by the Oamaru Whitestone Civic Trust as part of the city’s historic area.
Steampunk Capital of the World
The Victorian theme has been enthusiastically embraced by local shops and galleries in Oamaru, reflected in their fittings and decor. Enhancing the 'old-timey' atmosphere of the precinct are several arts and crafts shops, a transport museum, an antique furniture store, and traditional businesses like bookstores and food shops, particularly those specializing in cheese, as well as antique clothing and bookshops. Many of the buildings in this harbor area, which once served as commercial warehouses and shops, now provide spacious gallery venues, including the Forrester Gallery and Steampunk HQ.
Victorian Era Steam
Even the playgrounds in the harbor area reflect the steam theme of the industrial Victorian era, featuring a large penny-farthing structure that supports swings, along with other steampunk-inspired playground elements. In August 2016, Oamaru made it into the Guinness Book of World Records for hosting the world’s largest steampunk crowd. The term "steampunk," coined in the 1980's, imagines the inventions that Victorians might have created for the modern world.
New Zealand's Longest Bike Trail
Oamaru is the terminus of the Southern Alps to Pacific Ocean Cycle Route, which begins at Aoraki/Mount Cook. This trail is the longest of its kind in New Zealand, spanning over 300 kilometers and offering breathtaking views. It is one of New Zealand's great rides, officially known as Nga Haerenga. Opened in 2013, it is regarded as Aotearoa's premier multi-day cycling experience, set against the backdrop of the South Island's majestic Highlands and the stunning coastal scenery of North Otago.
14 Years of Development
As shown in the photos, the route is the culmination of 14 years of development since the idea was first conceived. It has been 10 years since the initial extended section of the route was officially opened in 2013.
Superlative Education
Oamaru is home to three secondary schools, each serving students from Years 9 to 13. Waitaki Boys' High School, located in the northern part of Oamaru, offers both day and boarding facilities. Founded in 1883, it has an enrollment of 414 students. Waitaki Girls' High School, established in 1887, is a state high school with 404 students. It also features a hostel that accommodates approximately 50 girls, including international students and tutors.
St. Kevin's College
Established in 1927, St. Kevin's College is a Catholic day and boarding high school with an enrollment of 476 students. It was founded by the Congregation of the Christian Brothers, which traces its roots to St. Edmund Ignatius Rice in Ireland. I had the opportunity to visit this high school, which is twinned with St. Peter's College, the school where I work in Auckland. During our visit, we encountered an extraordinary environment featuring modern study rooms, an impressive chapel, gymnasiums, reading rooms, dining areas, recreational spaces, as well as facilities for rugby, cricket, tennis, and basketball. The campus also includes a swimming pool and a complete equestrian setup, complete with stables, hurdles, and horses.
Giants, Aliens, and Māori Legends
Māori spiritual lore tells of the ancient Kahui Tipua people, who arrived in the canoe Ārai Te Uru, sailing from southern New Zealand to the Polynesian ancestral homeland of Hawaiki to obtain kūmara. On their return journey, the canoe lost food baskets on Moeraki Beach and eventually shipwrecked at Matakaea (known as Shag Point in English). According to legend, all the lost kūmara baskets washed ashore and over time transformed into the boulders we see on the beach today. In other versions of the tale, the boulders are said to represent fishing nets and calabashes that were washed ashore and then turned to stone. If you hear tourists referring to "eel pots," "gallstones," "giant gobstoppers," "alien brains," or "giant bowling balls," they are actually talking about these intriguing rock formations.
Allegorical Explanation
After the canoe was wrecked, one of the crew members, Pahihiwitahi, set out in search of water and discovered the Waitaki River. However, he was unable to reach the wreck before dawn, leading to his transformation into a hill in the Shag Valley. Modern scholars suggest that this story serves as an allegorical explanation for why the famous kūmara (Māori sweet potato) does not grow south of the Banks Peninsula, as the harsh conditions in that area are not conducive to its cultivation.
New Zealand's Stonehenge
Moeraki is now world-famous for its boulders, which resemble mysterious spherical stones scattered along the beach. Each boulder weighs several tons and can reach heights of up to two meters. Scientists have dated these boulders—actually calcite concretions—to be around 65 million years old. Despite extensive research, no one can explain why these boulders are clustered together or how they ended up in their current location!
How to Get to the Moeraki Boulders
The Moeraki Boulders are conveniently located just off State Highway 1 (the main highway running through the South Island of New Zealand), after the township of Hampden. The boulders are approximately 40 kilometers (a 30-minute drive) south of Oamaru, along a scenic route. They are scattered along Koekohe Beach, and access involves a short 5- to 10-minute walk from the public car park to admire the prehistoric formations. Alternatively, there is a direct track from the Moeraki Boulders Cafe, located at the end of a private road (accessible for cafe patrons). You can also take a short loop track (150 meters) from the cafe for an elevated view of the boulders. Note that there are additional steps leading down to the beach from the last two routes.
How Were These Miraculous Spheres Formed?
Each boulder began its life as a pebble or fossil on the ocean floor of the primordial seas. Over time, these stones "grew" through the accumulation of mud and calcification. Initially buried in mud, the boulders are still being eroded by the sea today. The best time to view the boulders is during low tide. But what made the Moeraki boulders visible? Researchers and geologists assert that they were formed through the hardening of Paleocene mudstone buried within the mud cliffs. Over time, sea waves gradually eroded the softer surrounding rock, revealing the spherical formations beneath. Scientists believe their spherical shape is linked to their carbon source. Mass diffusion caused the rocks to "grow" over five million years, while up to 50 meters of marine mud settled on top of them. Scientists believe the boulders are calcite formations that formed approximately 65 million years ago. More than 50 boulders of various sizes can be found on Moeraki Beach, although one boulder is missing—it is on display at the Otago Museum. Historical photographs from the 19th century indicate that there were once even more Moeraki boulders than there are today, and it is believed that people took the smaller stones as souvenirs. To prevent this from happening again, the Moeraki Boulders are now legally protected, prohibiting their removal, damage, or destruction.
The Little Blue Penguins
At just 30 centimeters tall, the little blue penguins more than make up for their lack of height with their cuteness. Each evening at dusk, they waddle ashore at the Ōamaru blue penguin colony, although some choose to stay home, especially after laying eggs and as their chicks grow. Visitors can watch these charming penguins up close in a designated viewing area. Additionally, you can explore the nesting area and visitor center to learn about the research and conservation programs dedicated to these remarkable creatures, led by some of New Zealand's foremost penguin experts. The blue penguin colony is a protected natural habitat, staffed by an oceanographer who conducts valuable monitoring and environmental research, enhancing our understanding of the species and the impacts of climate change on the penguins.
The Smallest Penguins in the World
Blue penguins typically live for about 8 to 10 years, although the oldest penguin in the Oamaru Colony reached an impressive age of 21. These remarkable birds can raise up to four chicks each breeding season and are one of the few penguin species capable of laying more than one egg per year. The blue penguin is the smallest penguin species in the world, swimming up to 50 kilometers a day during the breeding season to ensure their young are well-fed. It is also known by several names, including Little Penguin, Fairy Penguin, and Korora in Te Reo Māori.
Leaving the Nest
"Fledging" is the term used to describe when chicks leave their nest. It’s interesting to note that blue penguins excrete excess salt from their food through special glands located above their eyes. They also communicate with a series of calls to recognize each other and to claim and defend their territory. When they come ashore, penguins form groups known as rafts, which can consist of just a few individuals or more than 100. The eggs take up to 36 days to incubate. Another fascinating fact is that after swimming, little blue penguins cool off by fluffing their feathers and holding their wings up, away from their bodies.
Good to Know
Blue penguins are active on land only at night. In a remarkable achievement for conservationists in New Zealand, 519 eggs were laid at the colony during the 2017-2018 season, indicating the success of the conservation program. It's also worth noting that blue penguins waterproof the outer part of their feathers by dipping their beaks into a gland near their tails and rubbing it through their feathers. This outer layer acts as a "windbreaker" and is waterproof, while the inner layer is fluffy, trapping an insulating layer of air. However, blue penguins face several predators at sea, including sharks, sea lions, and leopard seals. Their beaks have a hook at the end, and their tongues feature spiny tips to help them hold onto and swallow slippery prey. While penguins come ashore in groups called "rafts," they forage individually when at sea. The maximum speed of the little blue penguin is up to 8 kilometers per hour. Annual molting occurs between January and March, during which the penguins remain onshore continuously for about two weeks. When foraging in the sea, they typically stay underwater for only 20 to 30 seconds but dive an average of 800 times a day. Penguins are well-equipped for the cold season, thanks to a layer of fat beneath their skin. However, their lives are not without danger; while nesting, little blue penguins face threats from various land predators, including dogs, cats, rats, and ferrets. In the early 2000's, a visitor center and two grandstands were completed, making the blue penguin colony Oamaru's largest tourist attraction, drawing over 75,000 visitors annually.
Instead of an Ending
I recently visited Oamaru, and what you’ve read here are my travel impressions. It was a true pleasure to discover this charming city, a refreshing escape from the non-stop hustle and bustle of Auckland. I was captivated by the sheep, horses, and cows grazing on the southern hills, the ocean with waves worthy of a surf capital, the colony of little blue penguins, and the hills covered in vibrant yellow gorse. The Moeraki boulders, the lively atmosphere of Dunedin, the beauty of St. Kevin's College, and above all, the warm hospitality of the people—all of this reminded me of the traditional hospitality of Romania.
I look forward to returning to these beautiful places, much like reuniting with a dear friend. See you soon!
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