Piatra Craiului, often called "Craiul," is Romania’s most challenging mountain—a legend among mountaineers and mountain enthusiasts. It is crisscrossed by numerous hiking trails, though most require a high level of experience to navigate safely. At the same time, it offers breathtaking views of magnificent landscapes. In 2010 and 2011, my eldest son, Radu, and I partially explored it—an initiation into mountain hiking for him, a discovery of this remarkable peak for me. Read below the story of our adventures.
2010, First Day: Curmătura Cabin
For our first visit, we ventured into the mountains with Florin, Radu’s godfather, and his daughter, Andreea. Florin had climbed these peaks in his youth and held fond memories of them. Following his advice, we decided to set up camp near Curmătura Cabin. To get there, we took the road from Zărnești to Fântâna lui Botorog. From this point, we followed the yellow stripe trail, which winds through the forest, leading up to the cabin.
2011, First Day: Returning to "Crai"
We followed the same route in 2011 when we returned to Piatra Craiului. This time, it was just Radu and me, but we were better prepared and more experienced. As a result, the trail that had seemed so long and exhausting the previous year now felt quite manageable, and we reached Curmătura Cabin in good time. Just as delighted as we were—if not even more—were the cabin’s resident dog and cat, who instantly fell under Radu’s spell.
2010, Second Day: Șaua Crăpăturii
The weather is less than ideal—morning fog followed by an overcast sky in the afternoon. Rain is in the forecast. Taking the cabin keeper’s advice, we decide on a light hike to Șaua Crăpăturii. It’s a trail that should take no more than an hour, with no major technical challenges but still physically demanding. We take about two hours, making our way through the forest. But the scenery is magnificent. Radu and I gaze at Piatra Mică and Crăpătura with the eyes of the enamored, promising ourselves that one day, we’ll return.
2011, Second Day: Piatra Mică Peak
On the second day of our 2011 trip, we set out to climb Piatra Mică, which rises to 1,816 meters. The morning was foggy, but by midday, the sun had broken through, so we seized the moment and set off. We crossed Șaua Crăpăturii and soon reached the foot of the mountain. A quick photo session with the peak as our backdrop, then we began the ascent. The trail is quite steep and demands good physical condition, but the sight of the mountains draped in lush vegetation was a balm for our eyes and souls.
In certain sections, the trail becomes "technical," requiring climbing skills for a safe ascent. You also shouldn’t be afraid of heights or prone to vertigo.
Along the way, we encountered a cross— a warning. The mountain tells us that it must be respected. Its lessons and laws must be known and followed, or it will not forgive. This is what we did, and we reached the summit, a bit tired but proud of our achievement. At the top, several crosses had been erected in honor of the Romanian soldiers who fell defending their country in the two world wars. We took a moment of silence in front of them. For the descent, we took the trail that ran along the other side of the peak, through the forest.
At the end, a little tired but proud of himself, Radu sits down and rests, eating an apple. It was a long day, but a fruitful one.
2010, Third Day: The "Turnu" Trail
On the third morning, we met up with a group who invited us to join them. They planned to climb Turnu Peak, following the trail of the same name, which is the second most difficult route in Piatra Craiului. Along the way, we encountered several sections that required advanced climbing skills. The cabin keeper tried to convince us to turn back, saying we didn’t have the necessary experience. However, the others stubbornly refused to give up. Fortunately, two mountain rescuers passing through the area agreed to accompany us. We left the cabin, crossed Șaua Crăpăturii, and reached the base of the peak. Here, the "technical" part began. The two rescuers gave us a brief lesson on how to climb and make proper grips. Then we set off, and Radu bravely charged ahead, firmly gripping the chain in his hands.
The shock came around the middle of the trail, where it was most dangerous. Radu descended a corridor, then climbed nearly straight up a wall, equipped with a chain. The entire scene unfolded under the watchful eyes of one of the rescuers, who quickly moved on afterward. I was stunned, on the verge of a heart attack, and asked him to stop and continue watching Radu. He responded curtly, "Your son is doing perfectly fine, and I need to supervise the others in the group."
In fact, Radu climbed so well that I had to follow him—not just to supervise him, but mainly to copy the movements and grips he made. Finally, we reached the summit, and the joy was immense: we had succeeded. We overcame the difficulties of the trail, as well as our own fears and limitations. The two rescuers warmly congratulated Radu on his performance and made him an irresistible offer: to join them as a mountain rescuer at the age of 18. They promised him a dream life: he would earn money and live his passion for the mountains. Bonus: a lot of girls would want to spend their nights with him. Unfortunately, it wasn’t meant to be, as three years later, Radu left for France. But the passion remained: at the age of 18, Radu was one of the most important members of his local mountaineering club.
Clearly, it is impossible to descend via "Turnu," as we lack the necessary experience, and we are quite tired as well. So, we take the crest trail, which is relatively easy until we reach Padina Popii. This is the starting point for the "Carol Lehman" trail, also known as the "Rescue Trail" by the mountain rescuers. It’s the route that less experienced hikers should follow if they want to reach the ridge from Curmătura. This trail is not easy, but it does not require climbing skills, unlike "Turnu." Energized by the rescuers' compliments, Radu doesn’t hesitate to take the lead, occasionally stepping ahead of us, carefully following the "blue stripe" trail markers.
2011, Third Day: Back on "Turnu"
We were so impressed by this trail in 2010 that we intended to do it again when we returned to Piatra Craiului in 2011! This time, we set out with a group of three people who wanted to complete the entire northern ridge of Craiului in a single day. Our plan was less ambitious: we would cover only part of it and sleep in a refuge before continuing the next day. They were experienced mountaineers, but we had also made significant progress since the previous year. So, we set off early at a good pace, maintaining it even on the most challenging sections of the trail. A few times, Radu even found himself at the front of the line, paving the way for us and receiving praise from our fellow hikers.
We take a short break at the top of Turnu to cool down and rest before tackling the northern ridge of the massif. At the beginning of the ridge trail, the sun was blazing, and we were sweating profusely. Once we passed Padina Popii, the true face of the Craiului ridge revealed itself: the trail became increasingly difficult and required climbing skills to continue. In some sections, the chains fixed into the rock helped us navigate the most challenging parts more safely.
But we are in the mountains, and the weather can change suddenly in a short amount of time. As we approach the summit of Vârful Ascuțit, the clouds begin to gather, and the fog slowly sets in. We take a longer break at the summit to eat, still hoping for a miracle: that the sun and good weather will return.
Unfortunately, the miracle didn’t happen, and we had to leave the ridge and descend to Cabana Curmătura via the trail marked with a "blue triangle." We weren’t the only ones in this situation: several other hikers were doing the same. The mountain has its own rules, and one of them is not to provoke it. If the weather is bad, it’s best to turn back and try again another time. Moreover, the first part of the trail is by no means easy; we descend a fairly steep and difficult slope. There’s even a short section secured with chains to avoid slipping on the scree.
2010, Day 4: The End
We enter the fourth day of our first encounter with "Craiul." The weather is gloomy, and we feel quite tired after yesterday's "Turnu." With no good weather forecast for the coming days, we decided to head back. Radu was a bit disappointed, but I made a solemn promise that we would return in 2011. So, we set off toward Fântâna lui Botorog, where my father-in-law would pick us up by car. We choose the trail marked with a "blue stripe," which, after a steeper descent through the forest, takes us through the magnificent Prăpăstiile Zărneștiului gorge.
Bonus: Just before reaching Fântâna lui Botorog, we encountered several mountain rescuers training by climbing a rock. Among the group were the two who had accompanied us on the "Turnu" trail. Of course, they recognized us and asked if we wanted to give it a try. I didn’t feel up to it, but Radu was very interested and climbed several meters up the rock. This was the beginning of a passion that he still practices today, 15 years later.
2011, Day 4: Forced Break
Day four: a rest day. It wasn’t something we wanted, but it was imposed upon us by the rain that fell all day. We spent it in the cabin, talking with other mountaineers about the trails we had completed and looking at photos of the landscapes from "Crai." In the afternoon, we invited a group of Hungarians to play UNO with us, but they refused, saying they didn’t speak English. So, I went for a nap, with nothing else to do. When I returned after a few hours, I found them all gathered around Radu, making a huge effort to learn the rules of the game, taught in English. By the end of the day, Radu had managed to teach them enough rules for them to be able to play.
2011, Day 5: Crăpătura
It’s the last day: yesterday’s rain has turned into a light drizzle. With heavy hearts, we decide it’s time to go home. But, in one last act of bravado, as a challenge to the unfriendly weather, we decide to descend via "Crăpătura." This is one of the legendary trails of "Craiul," and we don’t want to leave without experiencing it. It’s extremely dangerous, as we’ll have to walk over rocks and stones that have become very slippery due to the rain. But "Crăpătura" opens up before us, majestic, and we proceed with great caution.
We begin our descent, and we are fully focused on every step we take, carefully searching for where and how to place our feet. We must avoid slipping, hurting ourselves, or sustaining injuries.
And we succeed: we reach the end of the trail in perfect condition, though, of course, tired. We are extremely satisfied with ourselves and our adventures. And we make a promise to return in 2012 to cross the legendary ridge of "Craiul".
This is a beautiful and poetic tribute to the Piatra Craiului! The "Imnul Pietrei Craiului" captures the essence of the mountain, its rugged beauty, and the challenges it presents to those who venture there. The song’s verses reflect both the awe-inspiring landscape and the intense bond that forms between the mountaineers and the mountain itself. A heartfelt anthem for all those who have experienced the majesty of Craiului, and for those who dream of doing so.
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