PIATRA CRAIULUI - THE ANOINTMENT

On July 21, 2012, we set off on an incredible adventure: to traverse some of the most beautiful and challenging mountain trails in Romania, in the Piatra Craiului massif. “We” meant Radu, my eldest son (in the white T-shirt), Cătălin, his childhood friend, and me, Angelo.

The Piatra Craiului massif is a living legend, a mythical land for us mountaineers and mountain lovers. For us, it is “Craiul,” our Lord. We honor it in countless mountain songs, and it even has its own anthem—the Anthem of Piatra Craiului. Its peaks, cabins, refuges, and trails are all celebrated by us with respect, love, and genuine reverence.

Day 1 – “Crăpătura”

We chose to enter the massif via the trail known as “Crăpătura”—a legendary route, wild and beautiful, adored by mountain enthusiasts. Marked with a yellow stripe, it starts from Zărnești, crosses an alpine meadow, enters the forest, and begins to climb gently before becoming more difficult. The easy beginning allows us to get used to the ascent and gives us plenty of time to admire the stunning scenery that unfolds before our ecstatic eyes.

But this trail is like a deceptive rock ballad—Metallica’s “One”, for example. It begins softly, delicately, and then the drums enter, and the guitars start their hard, metallic riffs. Here, the rocks are the drums, appearing gradually, along the trail and around us. Later, the mountains and rock formations assert themselves, and the climb becomes steeper, more intense. The trail grows increasingly challenging—with our heavy backpacks, we should feel fatigue and draw on our energy reserves.

Not a chance. We find our rhythm, and the beauty of the surroundings makes us forget everything else. There is something in the air that pushes us higher, faster, further, as if carried by the wind. The climb is tough in places, yet paradoxically, instead of slowing down, we move faster and faster. How is this possible? The answer is simple: it is the magic of “Craiul,” of this legendary trail, “Crăpătura.” It is what fuels us with energy beyond the limits of ordinary endurance.

As if to confirm the magic of this place, what do we see in the distance, partially hidden—or rather camouflaged—among fir trunks and leafless branches? A magnificent chamois, a rare and elusive sight in the Carpathians. We freeze on the spot, careful not to startle it, and watch in admiration from afar. Unfortunately, it was only passing through—too quick for our taste—and disappeared toward the heights, leaving us behind, mumbling its dissatisfaction in silence. Naturally, the children were disappointed; to console them, I promised another encounter. Truth be told, even I could hardly believe it myself. But “Craiul” is true magic: a few days later, a magnificent chamois would pose before us like a mannequin.

Encouraged by my promise, the children resumed marching, and what we encountered along the way was fascinating. In places, ascending toward the heights, we moved through a kind of canyon: stretching our arms left and right, we could almost touch the rocks. We passed swiftly the viewpoint called “Balcony of Șaua Crăpăturii.” Exceptionally for us, we didn’t even pause for a photo session; instead, we headed straight to Curmătura Cabin, where we would set up camp for our stay in the “Crai.” Once there, we congratulated each other warmly—our morale was somewhere in the Milky Way galaxy.

Absolutely natural, considering we had completed this challenging route exactly within the time indicated on the orientation panels. And not just any pace—we were loaded like mules, with backpacks full of a week’s worth of provisions. The cabin keeper, a familiar face from previous trips (read “Piatra Craiului – Apprenticeship”), welcomed us warmly, smiling ear to ear. He asked in detail what we had done since last year, where we had been, and about our hiking plans for the coming days. He immediately permitted us to make a large campfire and even showed us where to find the necessary firewood. So, as soon as we set up camp, we went to gather supplies for the fire.

In the evening, a group of hikers joined us by the campfire. They were far less experienced than we were, planning only short walks around the cabin and on easier trails. They listened intently as we recounted our previous hikes and our preparation for this expedition. Our hiking plans for the coming days seemed almost fantastical to them.

In their eyes, Radu and Cătălin became legendary heroes, despite their youth. Listening attentively to our stories, they took notes, promising to follow our example and hike like us in the future.

Day 2 – Piatra Mică Peak

Today’s program: Piatra Mică Peak, 1,816 meters above sea level. The trail is not overly difficult, but it does include a few challenging passages secured with chains to help hikers ascend safely. Exactly what we needed as a warm-up for the truly difficult routes we would tackle in the “Crai.”

That morning at the cabin, we had a hearty breakfast accompanied by a large mug of hot chocolate. After a brief chat with our friends from the previous day, we set off briskly toward the spring, the cabin’s water source. There would be no water along the trail, so we had to fill up here. Then, under their admiring gazes, we headed out again, this time onto the trail. Along the way, we paused at the edge of a rock cavity, where the children had a great time climbing and posing for photos.

Let’s say it was a dress rehearsal for the photo session at the viewpoint “Balcony of Șaua Crăpăturii”—the one we hadn’t done yesterday. From this spot, we had a splendid view of both Crăpătura, the trail we had traversed yesterday, and Piatra Mică Peak, where we would climb today. It was magnificent, and I wished I had more time for photos, including shots of the children against the mountains.

Above: left – Crăpătura; right – Piatra Mică Peak. Below: left – Cătălin, right – Radu.

Muttering in discontent, Radu and Cătălin agreed to pose for a few minutes, constantly urging me to hurry—they were eager to start climbing. But shortly after setting off, while following the blue dot-marked trail, Radu paused for a “meditation” break!

And then it was my turn to be annoyed: couldn’t he meditate while I was taking photos? And what exactly was he meditating on? “I’m meditating to find an easier way to the top,” he replied in a (false) serious tone, while Cătălin laughed uncontrollably. I understood it was a form of playful revenge, since I had forced them to pause for the photo session at the Balcony. What could I do? I joined in their amusement, and in that relaxed atmosphere, we reached the first difficult section, equipped with chains. The children’s excitement peaked, and they held an impromptu lottery to decide who would lead. Cătălin, the winner, boldly took the lead.

In reality, this section was more spectacular than difficult—the rock was not smooth but full of edges, making it fairly easy to find hand and footholds for climbing. Therefore, it was less dangerous than it appeared at first and even fun for the children. A little later, following the trail, we reached a second climbing section, also secured with chains. Here, we encountered a couple descending toward Curmătura Cabin. The boy paused to photograph us from the top of this rocky passage, while the girl looked on in surprise at the children—so confident and skilled.

She even asked if they found the hikes in Piatra Craiului too difficult. Radu replied that this was his third expedition in “Crai,” while Cătălin explained that we had trained extensively for this trip. “If you knew what Mr. Angelo made us go through to prepare… believe me, this mountain doesn’t scare me anymore.” Then he began climbing the rock, agile and confident, followed closely by Radu. They even paused briefly to photograph me climbing behind them.

Once we reached the top of the rock, a short stretch of an exposed ridge followed, with cliffs on both sides. Soon after, we reached Piatra Mică Peak, our destination. Here, generous, patriotic mountain lovers had erected the massive Heroes’ Cross in memory of Romanian soldiers who fell defending the homeland during World War I. In front of it, we paused for a moment of reflection and sang the first three stanzas of “Treceți batalioane române Carpații.”

For the return to the cabin, we took the trail on the other side of the mountain through the forest. It was also marked with a blue dot, which we followed to a clearing, where we joined the blue stripe trail leading back to the cabin. The trail seemed almost too easy, but we didn’t regret our choice: tomorrow we would tackle one of the most difficult routes in “Crai,” so it was better not to tire ourselves unnecessarily.

At the start of the evening, we went to gather wood for the campfire. Of course, our friends helped us. As night fell, in front of the flames, they admired the photos I had taken along the way and listened to the story of our journey.

Day 3 – “Turnu – Ascuțit Peak”

On the third day of our expedition, it was time to go on the offensive! To attack the “Crai” ridge, of course. Today, we would traverse the first part of the North Ridge, from Turnu Peak at 1,911 meters to Ascuțit Peak, at 2,150 meters above sea level. But to get there, we first had to climb the “Turnu” route, the second most difficult trail in the massif.

Left: Radu climbing “Turnu.” Right: above, Turnu Peak; below, Ascuțit Peak.

That morning, while enjoying a hot chocolate, the cabin keeper asked me for a favor on behalf of the mountain rescue team. What was it about? A couple wanted to climb “Turnu” just like us, but without the necessary experience. Naturally, I agreed and immediately approached the two—a boy and a girl from Constanța, also eager to “get to know the mountain.” I proposed that we go together on the trail. To convince them, I emphasized that I had already done this route twice with Radu, so it would be like hiking with a guide. They eagerly accepted, and we set off, promising them magnificent views, especially at the viewpoint “Balcony of Șaua Crăpăturii.”

Unfortunately, just as we arrived there, a thick fog rolled in, preventing us from fully enjoying the mountain panorama. After a few minutes, I gave the signal to move on, despite Radu whispering his fears to me—he worried that bad weather might catch us on such a difficult trail with two beginners. Luckily, the clouds cleared quickly, and the sun shone again as we reached the base of Turnu Peak. Since this was where the difficult part of the trail began, I explained to the two newcomers that there were strict rules they had to follow.

In short, they had to follow exactly the instructions given by me or one of the children. They had to climb always behind Radu and Cătălin and mimic the handholds and footholds they used. The man began to protest, but I cut him off with what Cătălin likes to call “Mr. Angelo’s lawyer voice.” In a few words, I explained that these kids had more mountain hiking experience than many adults who appeared more seasoned.

Radu led the way, followed by the girl who had to copy his movements. Next came Cătălin, followed by the boy doing the same.

After making them understand the rules, we began ascending at the proper pace for a difficult climb—slowly! And if the two still had any doubts, they quickly realized I was right when we reached the most challenging section of the route. It began with a 10-meter vertical descent with handholds spaced far apart on the rock.

Then came an almost vertical rock ascent, secured with a cable, with very few footholds—almost impossible to find. I went first to ensure the chain was secure and that the handholds, known from previous hikes, were still reliable. Radu, familiar with the route, followed slowly and cautiously, both to avoid mistakes and to show the girl how to climb the wall. She climbed guided by Radu, who pointed out footholds and how to hold the cable. I stayed ready to intervene if necessary, but everything went perfectly, and she reached us safely, thrilled with her accomplishment.

Cătălin climbed like a pro—confident and fearless. The man followed him with tense, anxious eyes. When it was his turn, he climbed carefully, pretending all was fine—he couldn’t afford to appear weak in front of his girlfriend. Once this section was past, the remainder of the trail to the peak seemed easy. True, there were still a few challenging sections, but of a lower difficulty. At the top of Turnu, the children and I congratulated each other warmly to celebrate our achievement. The girl looked at us with admiration, while he played photographer for our group.

At that moment, they told us how scared they had been at the difficult passage. Without us, they would have been stuck—they couldn’t have climbed the wall alone, nor would they have had the courage to retreat. Without our guidance, they would have been stranded, waiting for the rescue team. Now, however, they felt safe in our company and wanted to continue with us along the ridge to Ascuțit Peak. Knowing the beautiful views that awaited us, I agreed.

From Turnu Peak begins the North Ridge of the massif. The first few kilometers follow a relatively easy path, though an exposed section is present. This gentle ridge ends at a point called “Padina Popii,” connected to Curmătura Cabin via the “Carol Lehman” trail, named in honor of the great mountaineer. Less experienced hikers wishing to ascend or descend from the ridge are advised to follow this route.

Aware of the difficulty of the remaining route to Ascuțit Peak, Radu suggested to the two beginners that they descend along this trail back to Curmătura Cabin. Stubborn but intoxicated by adrenaline and the beauty of the scenery, they refused and insisted on continuing with us. I agreed; although they were tired, the Carol Lehman trail, while not extremely difficult, was still a serious hike. I explained to Radu and Cătălin that it was safer to keep them with us, so we could monitor them closely and prevent any accidents. The most challenging sections were crossed slowly and carefully, with the beginners mimicking Radu and Cătălin’s movements exactly.

Above: Cătălin watches the girl use footholds on the descent. Below: Radu descends under the boy’s gaze.

Of course, having them slowed our pace, but that had a bonus: it gave us more time to admire the nature and the spectacular scenery the “Crai” offered. Right near Ascuțit Peak lies the refuge of the same name. Here we took a longer break and held another photo session. We also met a hiker who had traversed the ridge from “La Om” Peak to here—the exact route we planned for the next days. He, in turn, wanted to continue along the ridge to Turnu and descend to Curmătura Cabin—the very route we had just completed. A double win: we exchanged information on our respective plans.

Soon after, we began descending from the ridge toward Curmătura Cabin, following the blue triangle mark. Very quickly, we reached the only dangerous section: a scree field, covered with sharp, uneven rocks from mechanical weathering of the cliffs. A cable was fixed in the rock to help hikers. Radu and Cătălin went first, followed by the couple.

Once past this section, the rest of the trail was easy—a dirt path descending through the forest. We proceeded slowly; the day had been long, difficult, and full of emotions. Radu and Cătălin were especially tired, mainly due to the pressure of guiding and supervising the two beginners.

But they handled it brilliantly, and our fellow hikers returned home safely, with unforgettable memories. That evening, we were too exhausted even to light a campfire, and tomorrow was meant to be a rest day—or… not.

Day 4 – Rest… or not

We had decided this day would be for rest, before returning to the ridge to continue our traverse. For lunch, we went to the cabin and spent the afternoon chatting with the cabin keeper and other mountaineers. One of them, overhearing our plans to traverse the ridge, advised us to carry plenty of water—because up there, it’s completely absent. I had a brilliant idea: to carry a water reserve up to the ridge today. That way, tomorrow we would travel lighter with the rest of our gear—sleeping bags, mats, change of clothes, and food—for two to three days on the ridge. The kids weren’t thrilled that their day off was interrupted, but they admitted it was a good idea.

On the trail, we had a hilarious moment when we encountered a group of… jumping sheep. We stashed the water bottles in a bush near the ridge and returned to the cabin. The rest of the day was spent playing cards with other hikers and sharing mountain stories. Radu spent most of his time with Murky, the cabin dog, utterly enchanted by him as he often is with animals. Murky followed Radu so closely that the cabin keeper joked he feared the dog would run off with him.

Day 5 – Heading to the Ridge

When I woke up early, I told the kids that if they wished, today could be a true day of rest. While Cătălin politely tried to disagree, Radu was blunt: “No way, Dad. If we agree, in three hours you’ll have another ‘brilliant idea’—like, let’s carry our gear and water up to the ridge today, so tomorrow we start much lighter. So, NO. Today we’re going up to the ridge, and tonight we’ll sleep at Ascuțit Peak refuge.”

To be continued.