Usse Castle resembles those found in fairy tales and is directly tied to them; Charles Perrault, who penned the enchanting story of "Sleeping Beauty," had a similar castle in mind. We first discovered it in 2014 and revisited it in 2020. Here is our story.
The Discovery
My children, Radu and Vlad, aged 14 and 7, and I were traveling by bicycle through the Loire Valley, exploring its renowned castles. The day before, we had visited the Château d'Azay-le-Rideau, and now we were en route to the Royal Abbey of Fontevraud. As our route took us through the town of Rigny-Ussé, we decided to make a brief detour to visit the local castle before continuing on. Pedaling at a leisurely pace, we noticed the castle gradually coming into view in the distance. Even from afar, its grandeur was far beyond what we had anticipated. As we drew closer, it became clear that we were approaching an architectural masterpiece. By the time we arrived, we were left utterly speechless by its breathtaking beauty.
A change of schedule
After taking a closer look, we quickly decide to revise our plans—this castle deserves a leisurely visit. We choose to stay overnight and continue our journey the following day. We find a campsite in the city, set up our accommodation, and then take a shower. After a relaxing lunch, we rest briefly to regain our energy, eager to explore the castle at our best. We want to fully appreciate what seems to be a truly "storybook" castle. Soon, we begin our visit with great anticipation.
The History of the Castle
Situated on the edge of the Chinon forest, near the Indre River—a tributary of the Loire—the castle occupies a strategic location that has been inhabited since ancient times. An important trade route once passed through this area, making control over it crucial for managing both the Indre and Loire Rivers. Around 1040, Gelduin, the local lord, commissioned the construction of a fortification on this site, which gradually evolved into a formidable fortress. By the end of the Hundred Years' War, Jean V. de Bueil, a commander under Joan of Arc known as "The Scourge of the English," began transforming the old fortress into a castle. This new structure was more a palace than a fortress, reflecting a shift towards luxury and residential comfort. Despite these changes, in the 15th century, access to the castle was still secured by a drawbridge over the moat, designed to thwart potential attackers. Today, while the moats remain, the drawbridge has been replaced by a beautifully maintained wooden bridge.
French-style Garden
In the 16th century, the central portion of the castle and part of the right wing were constructed. By the 17th century, its palatial character was firmly established with the addition of an elegant pavilion and a garden designed by André Le Nôtre, the renowned landscape architect who created the quintessential French formal garden. Over time, further enhancements transformed the castle into a splendid and refined example of Renaissance architecture, adding to the esteemed collection of castles in the Loire Valley.
Vauban's Terraces
We must also highlight the terraces designed by the architect Vauban, renowned primarily for his military fortifications. His work further enhances the castle’s beauty. Over the centuries, successive owners have made numerous additions and improvements, continually enriching the castle’s character and charm.
The Blacas Family
The Blacas family acquired the castle about 200 years ago, and its members have been actively involved in the public life of the local area and the broader region. During the German occupation in World War II, the castle and its cellars were used to shelter numerous valuable works from the National Library of France and the Library of the Senate. Pierre de Blacas d'Aulps de La Baume-Pluvinel, the then-owner of the castle, took significant measures with both French and German authorities to prevent the requisition and use of the castle by the German army. His efforts helped convince the Allies that the castle posed no threat, sparing it from being bombed. After the war, the castle was partially opened to the public, though a small section remains private, with the owner residing there. The income generated from visitors is used to fund conservation and renovation efforts, contributing to the castle's excellent overall condition.
The Interior of the Castle and the King's Chamber
In the entrance hall, visitors can view several models depicting the castle at various stages of its development. This is followed by the guard room, which now houses an impressive collection of weapons. Continuing the tour, we arrive at the Vauban Salon, where we find a remarkable piece of furniture: an Italian ebony cabinet reputedly used by Vauban himself while designing the château's terraces. Further along, we explore the old kitchen hall and the grand staircase leading to the first floor. Here, we find the antechamber and the "King's Chamber," a room that was a standard feature in Loire Valley castles, intended to accommodate the king should he visit. The tour concludes with the Great Gallery, adorned with tapestries from the 16th and 17th centuries.
The Donjon
We now arrive at the donjon, a central feature in the castle's design. As the highest and most fortified part of the structure, the donjon played a crucial role in defense. It served as a lookout point and a stronghold from which to repel attackers. In times of siege, the donjon was the final refuge for defenders, offering a last stand with the hope that either reinforcements would arrive to rescue them or that the enemy would be worn down and withdraw.
Palace-Castles
By the end of the 15th century, the strategic importance of fortress-castles in interior France began to wane. As a result, they were increasingly replaced by palace-castles. This new type of castle typically retained the keep, allowing visitors to enjoy the panoramic views that once captivated the owners and their guests, while also serving practical purposes. Château d’Ussé, for example, features its own keep, which now primarily serves to recount the story of "Sleeping Beauty."
The Beauty of the Sleeping Forest
It is often said that Charles Perrault wrote the story of "Sleeping Beauty" after visiting the castle, its keep, and the surrounding forest, drawing inspiration from them. Although there is no concrete evidence of such a visit, many elements in the story suggest that Château d’Ussé might indeed be the inspiration for the fairy tale. Inside the donjon, several rooms are arranged to vividly "narrate" the enchanting story. My children and I explored these rooms with wide-eyed wonder, marveling at how the tale is brought to life. And while some critics might mention the so-called "lack of consent" in the story—an issue exacerbated by modern interpretations—try to set aside such distractions. Instead, allow yourself to rediscover the sense of wonder you felt as a child when you first encountered this timeless fairy tale.
And the Visit Continues
Still awed by our earlier experiences, we proceed to the castle courtyard and explore the cellars, which continue to serve their historic purpose: the preparation and storage of wine.
At the Chapel
Next, we visit the Collégiale Notre-Dame, which has historically served—and continues to serve—as a chapel for the owners and their guests. Notably, the walls are devoid of religious paintings, as these were removed during the French Revolution.
The Castle Garden
Our visit in 2014 concludes with a leisurely stroll around the castle and through its beautiful garden.
An End Without End
The memories from my first visit to the castle were so vivid that I returned in July 2020 with my wife, Irina. This second visit had a profoundly positive impact on our mental health, which had been deeply affected by the first COVID-19 lockdown in France (from March 15 to June 11). For Irina, the castle and its gardens were a delightful discovery; for me, it felt like reuniting with an old friend I hadn't seen in years. To our pleasant surprise, the loft had been magnificently renovated since my last visit in 2014.
Goodbye
As I reflect, I wonder what delightful surprises await us on our next visit to the castle—a visit we are certain to make soon.
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